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Remington 10 Gauge Hulls
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Harry Collins
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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 01:25 am

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Another helpful thing is to use a larger over shot card. For 12 gauge I use 11 gauge over shot card and for a ten gauge I use a 9 gauge card. With brass shells, I have hunted all day with loose shells in my coat pocket and did not lose any shot and the card was NOT glued with these larger over shot cards (I did not have to run at any time durring the hunt). I do like water glass as well, however it takes a day or two to set up and I like to shoot the black powder loads fairly soon after loading. The water glass gets real frosty and brittle after several months.

Harry

paul harm
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 Posted: Thu Nov 1st, 2007 01:34 am

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Harry, I do that with brass shells- still have trouble. I have 12, 11, and 10ga wads- hate to think of buying 9ga OS cards also. Thanks anyways - maybe I'll try the waterglass. Paul

paul harm
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 01:42 am

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The Duro didn't work, nor fingernail polish - even tried PVC glue- no luck. So I ordered a roll crimper. That should solve the problem. Paul

Harry Collins
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 02:43 am

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Paul,

For plastic hulls, I think you are on the right track. My experience is with brass hulls except the black powder I loaded in plastic and that got a star crimp.

Harry

Bill Frech
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 12:32 pm

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Guys - I've found the best solution (I load brass shells) is to use a hot glue gun.  I've NEVER had an o/s wad come loose, even after remaining in the left barrel after many shots have been fired through the right barrel.



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paul harm
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 02:03 pm

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Maybe I'll try the hot glue with my brass shells. I think the roll crimp on the plastic shells will look nice although they'll be pretty short seeing how I'm only loading 1oz of shot- should be around 2 1/3". Paul

Dave Miles
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 02:21 pm

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Paul, the one thing nice about roll crimping. Is you can trim your hulls to the exact length you need, and still get a good roll crimp, without a bunch of trouble. You can just as easily roll crimp a 1-1/2" long shell as you can a 3-1/2" long shell.

Don Kaas
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 03:03 pm

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I use Duco cement on my brass shells with one size over top cards (11g for a 12g) They seem to work fine. On used brass, just wipe the inside rim of the cleaned cases with emery cloth and the Duco seems to stick and stay stuck.

I plan to use my 30" D grade top lever for this year's pilgramage to Beaver Dam so I can show Old Destry what 3 1/2 drams of FFG and 1 1/4 oz of Bismuth 5s in Magtech brass can do...then again, 3 drams and 1 oz of #5s might work nicely in Dave Miles' old 32" O grade 16g  top lever...dem grey ducks doan tek much killin'...Smoke in the cypresses:cool:

Last edited on Tue Nov 6th, 2007 03:04 pm by Don Kaas

paul harm
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 03:06 pm

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Dave, I order the crimper from Ballistic Products for $38 and three hours later while sitting out at the club I see in the new Precision Reloading catalog they cost $25. And their 12ga one is $12 [ also have one for $25, think the difference is plastic /steel] . Oh well, live and learn. Do you just hold the shell in your hand or clamp it in some way ? paul

Dave Miles
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 03:23 pm

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Paul, you won't be able to hold the shell with your hand. I bought the shell holder from B-P. But you could make one real easy. Or you could use some pliers, and put tape or rubber hose over the jaws to cushion the grip. You don't want to scar the brass if it spins in whatever you are holding it with. I use a small drill press and set the stop after the first shell. That way they are all the same.

paul harm
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 04:00 pm

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Thanks- just looked again at the BP catalog- I was wrong, the crimper was $29 not $39- the 410 was 39. Think I'll make a holder- the small drill press sounds like a good idea. paul

paul harm
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 04:57 pm

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Don, my favorite 12ga load is 92grs and 1oz- makes a nice "quick" load - either of yours also sounds real good .

  Dave, must be this awful weather allowing me so much time on the internet. I loaded up 20 boxes of 12ga this morning , played with the 10ga shells, got on here and just ate some caribou stew- will be heading out shortly for the club- it's shotgun day. Don't think there'll be any sporting clays, too rainy. Maybe a little skeet or trap and an ALOOF meeting in the shotgun room talking old SxS's. We just got five more automatic throwers and a voice release for trap. Sure gonna miss those old manual Lincoln throwers- can do so much more with them.  paul

Dave Miles
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 Posted: Tue Nov 6th, 2007 05:12 pm

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Paul, are you thinking about a spring SxS shoot? Either formal or informal. I'll stay and shoot two days worth again. :)

paul harm
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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2007 01:45 am

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just got back from the club- yes we are. I believe it's April 12th. We were talking about prizes, and what events to offer. We should formalize everything in another month. I'd like it better than last year- let you know. Paul

Don Kaas
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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2007 03:37 pm

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Paul- you might want to buy a period roll crimper. I bought 4 in 10,12,16 and 20 on eBay and never paid more than $25 for one. They work great.-Don

Tom Flanigan
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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2007 08:46 pm

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I love roll crimps and at one point was taking the time to roll crimp all of my grouse loads because I like the way they look.  The only problem with roll crimps is that they significantly reduce the number of reloads you can get from a shell vs. a star crimp. 

I haven't used any of my roll crimped grouse loads yet this year.  I'm still working through some "private stock" #10 loads Morris Baker (RST) gave me.  The #10s are doing a nice job on the grouse (I don't take any shots over 30 yards...actually in my coverts I can't see any grouse over 30 yards) and I have taken more birds this year than I did last year at this point.  Morris just got back from a couple of weeks of chasing grouse in Michigan and he might have been using the #10s also.

He mentioned the no tox loads that RST will be marketing and he said that they perform much better than bismuth.  He'll probably send me some to try.

I encourage each of us to support RST.  Morris and his cohorts are doing a great job of filling a real need for those of us who love vintage double guns.  All of the RST shells I have tried are superb....the best.  I especially like those with paper cases.  I am going to use a box of paper case 12 bore, 1 oz. loads for quail shooting tomorrow in the lifter gun that I have just finished restoring.  The loads aren't roll crimped but with the red paper cases they are truly a thing of beauty......

Destry Hoffard
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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2007 08:58 pm

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I'm interested to see how the new non-toxic loads are priced. If they beat Kent's new price schedule then I'm a new acolyte of RST for sure. Actually I am already, their short 10 gauge shells won me the Kimble vs. Bogardus match last year.


Destry



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Harry Collins
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 Posted: Wed Nov 7th, 2007 09:59 pm

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Destry AKA Market Hunter AKA Pimp Daddy,

I spoke with Morris and Alex earlier this week about their new non-tox shells. They are going to do the 2 7/8" ten gauge in 1 1/4 oz and I think a 2 1/2" or 2" twelve gauge shell. The 10's are going to be in the monetary vicinity of Kent TM's. I will support RST before I do Kent. I reload all my shells yet I still buy several flats from RST throughout the year. We have to keep Morris in cigars and 12 year old Scotch.

Harry AKA Dick AKA...Oh, never mind

 

paul harm
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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2007 04:07 pm

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My roll crimp tool came yesterday- I now have four boxes of 2 3/8" black powder shells. Also had to make four boxes to put them in. The wife made up labels- looks kind of neat. Now I'm ready for our SxS shoot. Paul

Dave Miles
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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2007 04:47 pm

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Tom Flanigan wrote: I love roll crimps and at one point was taking the time to roll crimp all of my grouse loads because I like the way they look.  The only problem with roll crimps is that they significantly reduce the number of reloads you can get from a shell vs. a star crimp. 


 

Tom,

I find with the paper hulls, that the hull burns through at the brass, before the shell wears out at the other end. Now, roll crimping plastic hulls, is another story. The main thing I noticed is the plastic hull takes a set from the roll crimp, and makes it very difficult to reload. The wad doesn't want to go in. I usually have to cut or shorten the plastic hull after every reload.


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