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Unread 09-03-2011, 01:25 PM   #11
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Bill Murphy
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On some Parkers, with the barrels as open as you can force them, the screw retaining the cocking hook can be removed, freeing up the barrels. Can you see the entire head of this big screw on the left side of the barrel lug with the barrels open?
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Unread 09-03-2011, 09:48 PM   #12
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Hi Bill, I can, however I can only get the screw to rotate 90 degrees and it freezes. I put the BP to that as well.

I shot 75 rounds through it today to loosen it up as well. I am getting frustrated as I want to send it out to Mike Orlen for a choke job and have it back for Ocotober!!
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Unread 09-06-2011, 07:43 PM   #13
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Update:
My former smith freind helped me out! He ground a srcrew driver to fit the screw in the lug and go it out. He is going to open her up and clean it out. Thanks for the help guys.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 08:21 PM   #14
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Good, now what was that about a choke job.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 10:06 PM   #15
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She is going in for surgery, .000 and .012. Grouse and Woodcock.
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Unread 09-06-2011, 11:30 PM   #16
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Have you tried spredder loads?
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Unread 09-06-2011, 11:52 PM   #17
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Yup, they were ok, $15 a box. Modified and Full do nothing for me as this gun will never see the salt or swamp.
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Unread 09-07-2011, 12:21 AM   #18
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Micah, You can load your own spreaders. I have several tightly choked Parkers that when the situation calls for I load with spreaders. In fact my grouse and woodcock 20 gauge Trojan has factory chokes of Mod/Full and spreaders do a wonderful job.
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Unread 09-07-2011, 12:46 AM   #19
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Thanks for the sugestion, however, I really have no desire to load 12's or 20's. I load for rifles pistols and 10 gauge. I bought the gun to hunt it. It hasn't been used in 30 years, it's too young to die on a wall.
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Good to hear-
Unread 09-07-2011, 09:14 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Williams View Post
After soaking overnight in penetrating oil, you can bang on the receiver with a heavy plastic or hard rubber mallet to try and jar the mechanism loose so that the spring pressure will disengage it.

As an aside, on another forum there was a discussion about a study done by the ASE to evaluate the effectiveness of several types of penetrating oils. The best performing penetrating oil (i.e. freed a rusty nut/bolt with the least torque required) to be a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Jim
I've been using a 50-50 mix of Kroil and acetone for years for a rust/crud soak and it works- acetone has a dangerous flash point, so well ventilated and spark free areas are of concern- as our friends in the German Gun Collectors might say- "Rauchen Verbotten"!!!
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