Disassembly problem
 

Hello, I am unalbe to remove the barels on my Parker Trojan. I have read about it before and have tried pulling both triggers and then trying to no avail. The pin in the reciever is flush and does not appear to move. I have put the PB Blaster to for now. Any thoughts? Thanks!

Have you got the forend off? The pin doesn't move the barrles rotate on it.

I can get the forearm off. I'm not referring to hinge, but a small circular pin in the end of the action that is revealled when the forearms comes off.

I just looked at my Trojan MY pin is stickin out I believe that is the cocking pin. When you pull your triggers do the hammers drop make sure it is empty and i'm sure you would. Does it recock?

That is the pin. It is flush with the reciever and does not move, yet the gun funtcions fine and will recock and fire.

The retracted pin indicates a stuck cocking hook mechanism that is not retracting to release the barrels.
Soak the end of the pin with Breakfree CLP and also apply the CLP inside the receiver at the bottom of the trigger plate front.
Be patient and eventually the CLP will disrupt the crud and rust "freezing" up the mechanism. When the pin starts to exit the receiver front gently assist its exit adding more CLP.
Bob Jurewicz

Here is the little devil wanting a drink of a fine penetrating oil. It is definitely "stuck" as it should protrude from the front of the frame, not be flush, when the action is open. This particular VH was completely seized with rust and "crud". All metal was soaked for a long time to begin to free up the parts. The screw that holds this group in place has a small head. I used jeweller's screwdrivers to finally remove it to clean off all contaminants, as well as the bore through which it moves.

Cheers,
Jack

http://parkerguns.org/forums/picture...pictureid=1475

After soaking overnight in penetrating oil, you can bang on the receiver with a heavy plastic or hard rubber mallet to try and jar the mechanism loose so that the spring pressure will disengage it.

As an aside, on another forum there was a discussion about a study done by the ASE to evaluate the effectiveness of several types of penetrating oils. The best performing penetrating oil (i.e. freed a rusty nut/bolt with the least torque required) to be a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Jim

I have had sucess with PB Blaster too

Me, too. It's a good product. In fact it's what's on my bench right now.

Jim