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Unread 12-26-2017, 11:22 PM   #1
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B. Dudley
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All the bushings are slotted for removal with a proper sized turnscrew. No need to chance damaging it using improper tools for the job. They are pretty delicate.
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Unread 12-27-2017, 08:10 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dudley View Post
All the bushings are slotted for removal with a proper sized turnscrew. No need to chance damaging it using improper tools for the job. They are pretty delicate.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/43...crewdriver-set
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Unread 12-27-2017, 01:15 PM   #3
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Thanks Edgar, but I have the complete set of Brownell's bits plus the thin bits. I did not see slots in the top of the ferrule and I took a good look at it.

But even if I remove the safety reset rod the top lever should not be bumping the rod when fired. I've replaced the top lever v-spring in an early model Parker before (pre-coil spring) and it was not fun with lots of fitting on the ones I got from Dixie Gun Works, but I may have to do it. That is the only reason I can think of that the lever would bump the rod upon firing, a weak v-spring.
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Unread 12-27-2017, 02:02 PM   #4
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Thanks to all for convincing me that there was a slot there. Someone refinished the stock and varnished over the slots; dug them out and with a thin bit took the rod out after the ferrule was removed. I like Fox's simplicity, just a rod and one can make them from a nail if missing. I thought they were the same but remembered wrong. Now if I can remember to reset the safety after shooting I'll be OK.
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Unread 12-27-2017, 07:44 PM   #5
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I have an L. C. Smith Skeet Special that does that with most factory loads. Never does it with RST or my low pressure reloads. Something I need to get Brian Dudley to look at for me. John Davis
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Unread 12-27-2017, 08:38 PM   #6
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I was shooting 3 Dram 1 1/8 factory Federal loads in the 2 frame VHE. So not really excessive kick. I plan to use it on a turkey this spring since both chokes are right at .040 so I can't have the second barrel unavailable, just in case.
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