10 Gauge, 2-5/8" Brass....

[Roundsworth]

.....from Rocky Mountain Cartridge. Has anyone here used their lathe-turned brass? RMC also sells a simple loading tool for their cases that does not resize the brass. Are these cases thick enough, like the old 'Everlasting' cases, that they do not (should not?) require full length resizing? Does anyone use the 4D shotshell die sets for standard (such as the Rock Chucker) presses? Cheers!

[Paul Harm]

If you use the shells in the same gun they won't need resizing. I've found that shells shot from a semi-auto are about the only ones needing to be resized. I believe it's because they come out of the gun so fast. I shoot about 10 different SxS's and don't resize. Paul

[Roundsworth]

Are the RMC brass cases of the 'balloon head' configuration, or do they have an inside base shaped like a modern plastic hull with a base wad?

[Harry Collins]

Mark,

The first time I used Ballard Brass (now RMC) shells in my 1881 10 gauge I experienced blow back as the cases were fire formed to the chamber. Nothing came back in my face and I did not notice it at the time, however when I cleaned the gun there was powder residue under the forend and on the water table etc. I have not experienced it again. I think the brass fits the chambers and now form a good seal to prevent blow back.

Harry

[ch]

You can make everything to reload them unless you just want his. Well they use 209 primers don't know what to tell you to use to knock out the primers maybe a piece of 1/8 inch welding rod wit flux knocked off drill you a hole in a block to knock them in. I would use circlr fly wads RMC well no what wads you need. find something that will fit in the shell hole to compress the powder a little. good luck ch I don't think they would be like ballon head since they are turned on a lathe
I've hurd they work well

[Harry Collins]

The RMC brass takes a wad equal to its gauge ie: 10 gauge brass loads with 10 gauge wads (extruded brass uses one gauge larger wad). If your shooting open chokes use less wads. With full chokes the constriction will catch the wads and slow them so they will not blow the pattern. Talk to Craig Smith at Circle Fly wads, he has a world of experience and is a great guy to ask. You will want to go with a gauge larger over shot card. I have used water glass to seal the shells, but now use a hot glue gun to seal the over shot card because it is ready to go in your bag of shells as soon as you put the glue gun up. I use a MEC 600 Jr to deprime and prime RMC brass. The primer holes are tight and if you are depriming and priming by hand this is what I have done. Take a 2x4 and and drill a 7/8 hole 1/4" deep and then drill a hole all the way through a little larger than the primer. Place the shell in the hole and drive the primer out with a punch and hammer. Be careful not to bugger up your brass. To seat the primer I used a vice.

Harry

[David Hamilton]

The RMC tools are worth the price and work fine. De-priming is easy with their tool. For convenience I have added a dowel of the correct size for tamping the powder and wads. I am working on a cleaning brush to get all the burnt powder out of the spent shells. David

[Marc Retallack]

David

One of the stiff bristled brushes (of the proper diameter) used for cleaning the inside of copper plumbing tubing might be just the ticket for cleaning your brass.

Cheers
Marcus