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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
John D.
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03-18-2010, 07:11 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 25
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Thanked 10 Times in 1 Post
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stock work
I have watched with interest the "winter projects" which involve soaking the oil out of old stocks and refinishing them. Is this something anyone can do, or is it a little more involved than that. I certainly dont like the idea of acetone and microwaves or toasters or whatever. I am a woodworker by trade but have little gunsmithing experience and would like to bring back the wood on my I grade...
What does one put on after all the oil has been removed? How does one know when all the oil is out? so many questions.
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03-19-2010, 12:58 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 296
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Hello Aaron,
Being a woodworker you will understand the difference between quarter sawn and slab sawn. Most gunstocks are quarter sawn to optimize strength and figure. Quarter sawn wood creates end grain. End grain in dried wood will tend to absorb or wick moisture. You will notice that plank wood has the ends sealed to prevent moisture wicking.
If the end grain on a stock is not totally sealed it will wick moisture naturally, many a duck hunter using an older Remington can attest to the stock swelling ahead of the buttplate. The endgrain at the head of the stock will absorb and wick Oil into the center grain causing the wood to weaken and turn black.
Acetone will remove surface oil but wont pull the oil from the center grain. This requires heat and a chemical to emulsify the oil. If you do not remove most all of the oil it will resurface with time.
A simple way to draw out the oil is with a heat gun and alcohol. Strip the wood, wipe down with alcohol. Apply heat to the stock and the oil will come to the surface. When the oil starts to bubble, wipe it off with an alcohol soaked towel. It takes a lot of time but it is a gentle way to pull oil without damaging the wood. Be careful not to start a fire or char the wood.
Brad
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Brad Bachelder For Your Post:
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