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#3 | ||||||
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The DH I used to have 1903 (see Avatar) would have trouble closing on new shells and if it would close, would be verry difficult to open. Some different manufacturers new shells would work just fine, some not. The problem seemed to be the brass rim. If there was a slight radius between the wall and rim, it wouldn't seat right. If it was almost a 90 degree angle, they worked fine. I had the rim cut worked on by Dewey.
I'm way to young to know about those planes. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Chuck Bishop For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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I borrowed back the 28ga. rim cutter, part of a set which belonged to James Hayes, now in a private collection. When I owned these tools, I loaned the 28ga. cutter to another member who reported that it worked perfectly, and despite being 100 years old, cut perfectly. I used the darkest hand cutting oil I had and the newly cut surface was great.
It took only a few minutes per side to enlarge the rim recess to .681, removing .003" and .0035". As you can see, the tool is date stamped '1921' which was common practice for cutting tools. James Hayes, was technically still called a tool maker, though at this time, if I recall, he was Asst. Superintendent. |
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| The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to edgarspencer For Your Post: |
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#5 | ||||||
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I have a Clymer 12ga rim recess reamer I got to ream out my DH12 that has issues with Win AA hulls that have out of round rims. It has no issues with Rem STS hulls or old paper hulls. I've never reamed it yet because when you slide the pilot into the chamber and put the reamer cutters against the breech it's clear that the breech is not cut orthogonal to the bore center line as the cutting teeth aren't hitting evenly. This is assuming, of course, that the reamer is properly machined, which is not guaranteed. I can't see where the breech wouldn't be orthogonal to the bore. Anyone ever see this before? My cure for the DH12 has been to never shoot AA hulls in it. My 28ga Repro sticks with AA hulls also, sometimes seriously enough that you can't get it open without gently clamping it in a rubber jawed vise just enough to allow releasing the lever and opening it. So, I don't shoot the newer AA HS hulls in that one either. Vintage paper shells have nice round rims and work just fine.
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#6 | ||||||
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Dean, the reamer I used will cut chamber and forcing cone as well as the rim recess. HOWEVER, the reamer did not take ANY metal from MY particular forcing cone or chamber. It was a very non-invasive reamer at the front end. It is piloted and makes a beautiful cut at the rim. The reason Edgar doesn't believe my description is because Manson and Clymer probably don't make this reamer any more. Not finding it in the catalog doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Edgar should know that.
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#7 | |||||||
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Quote:
And, they ARE still in the catalog, but I don't need either, as I'm going to use an original Parker Rim cutter, not because I have to, but because I don't have to spend $300 bucks for a tool I'll likely never use again. I don't know who your friend is, but if you wanted me to know, you would have told me. |
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#8 | ||||||
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The Clymer reamer I have has a bolt like shaft in front of the recess reamer section that has a sliding pilot cylinder on it. I'm thinking it just isn't machined properly and that I should toss it. Here's a pic. Does this look right to anyone? I think I remember this was not a catalog item and was 'custom made'....
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#9 | ||||||
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My VHE 28" 28ga "0" frame gun from 1911 had to have the rim cut larger. I used an older version reamer and it just barely took a cut into the beginning of the forcing cone. Has worked great and is one of my favorite dove guns.
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#10 | ||||||
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Edgar, can you show a closeup picture of the working end of the cutting teeth? Am wondering if you keep cutting if it will make the recesses deeper. Is this the kind of tool they cut the original recesses with?
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