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Visit Brian Dudley's homepage! | |
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#3 | ||||||
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wayne make sure hammers are cocked.. now take off the foreend....then snap the hammers down as if shooting it...this wont hurt the gun.. now unbritch the gun barrels should come rite off... i have an old ten ph that i have to do this erery time i take the barrels off.... charlie
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#4 | ||||||
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Thanks fellows. I pulled the gun completely apart and cleaned everything. Am putting it back togeather now. Still no luck. Have to remove the screw that holds the movabale hook on the barrel to get a part. It will snap back togeather with no problem, but then you cant remove the barrels again. there are no broken springs that I can see and everything is clean and moving freely. What is the pin protruding through the front of the frame. It is spring loaded and when you put the forearm on it pushes it in.
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#5 | ||||||
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Wayne,
The pin prodruding out of the front of the frame is the unhooking pin. This pin is what pushes on the unhooking slide in the trigger plate. This pin should be sticking out when the forend is off. With the forend off, you should be able to push in on it with your finger and it should spring back. If it pushes in very easily then the unhooking slide is stuck most likely. If all is working correctly, it will push in but be firmer to the touch because you are also pushing on the unhooking slide. I am surprised you were able to pull the cocking hook screw with the barrels on. Most of the time, this screw head will not clear the water table when the breech is opened. Like I said previously, most likely you have a gummed up unhooking slide, or a broken slide spring. I recently repaired a Trojan that was very clean inside, but it would not unhook. Sure enough when I took the unhooking slide out and removed the pin from the back of it, the small spring was in about 8 pieces. It had a little movement still with the broken spring, but not enough to unhook the barrels. Another note, is that if someone has been into the gun before, if the set screw for the unhooking slide was over tightened, that can also cause the slide to stick.
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B. Dudley |
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#6 | ||||||
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Hello Brian. The pin that runs through the frame seems to work properly. it moves smothly and is under spring tenshion. The gun is a real bear to reassemble. I did not see any kind of a set screw. Is the spring your talking about in a little cylinder that is recessed into the trigger plate. I probably will not dissamble again. the first time gave me a headach.
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#7 | ||||||
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Wayne, Yes, the small spring is in the unhooking slide, which is in the trigger plate. The set screw I mentioned is also in the trigger plate.
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B. Dudley |
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#8 | ||||||
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I am going to try to take the gun to my daughters tomorrow and take some pictures. Maby some one can tell me weather the but plate is correct. May try to rebrown the barrels,havnt decided yet the gun should still make a good shooter. Because of the way the but plate is made(with the little protrusion at the top) I think I will add a slip on pad to lenthen the Lop out to 14 1/2". Brian I will try to get deseant pictures of the checkering. See if you think it is worth recheckering. thanks.
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#9 | ||||||
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Hi fellows. Tryed to post pictures today but I had no luck (witch is not a surprise because I am computor eliterate). What is a surprise is that my daughter could,nt make it work either. Any help from any body would be appreciated. thanks
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#10 | |||||||
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![]() Quote:
if so - open the picture there - right click and copy the properties - or copy the address from the HTTP window then with the cursor in the reply window - click on the pale yellow square image above that has the mountains and sun in it paste the copied properties/address into the spot for it-- and click OK. or paste the address between a [IMG] and [/IMG] - same thing or http://parkerguns.org/forums/faq.php...b3_attachments
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"If there is a heaven it must have thinning aspen gold, and flighting woodcock, and a bird dog" GBE |
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