10 gauge RCC brass

[Paul Harm]

From a couple of years old, an Alliant handbook shows: Rem hull, 1 1/4oz of shot, CCI209M primer, 31grs of Unique, SP-10 wad and six .135 fiber spacers has 7500psi at 1265fps. Using a Win 209 primer, all else the same had 7600psi. Go figure. Now, loading those nice looking brass shells with nitro. Man, I've never had any luck, others have. I believe it's in the crimp. My older Accurate Powder reloading handbook has a paragraph or two on the importance of the crimp, and how it effects pressure. They claim it's one of the most overlooked items when reloading. The depth of the crimp effects pressures more than the type of primer. The military had brass shotgun shells that were used during the Vietnam war. They had a rolled crimp. There was a fellow on another reloading forum that hunted with brass shells and nitro powder but he also roll crimped them. I believe the roll crimp along with the weight of the load gives the necessary resistance for the nitro powder to burn properly. I'd like to see some reloading recipes for brass shells and nitro powders, and if they're roll crimped. At one time, I was up to 30grs of PB and was only getting bloopers with glued in OS cards. This was with the Magtech drawn brass shells. I've shot many a BP shell in my doubles and only cleaned what I could see.

[Milton C Starr]

Originally Posted by Paul Harm

From a couple of years old, an Alliant handbook shows: Rem hull, 1 1/4oz of shot, CCI209M primer, 31grs of Unique, SP-10 wad and six .135 fiber spacers has 7500psi at 1265fps. Using a Win 209 primer, all else the same had 7600psi. Go figure. Now, loading those nice looking brass shells with nitro. Man, I've never had any luck, others have. I believe it's in the crimp. My older Accurate Powder reloading handbook has a paragraph or two on the importance of the crimp, and how it effects pressure. They claim it's one of the most overlooked items when reloading. The depth of the crimp effects pressures more than the type of primer. The military had brass shotgun shells that were used during the Vietnam war. They had a rolled crimp. There was a fellow on another reloading forum that hunted with brass shells and nitro powder but he also roll crimped them. I believe the roll crimp along with the weight of the load gives the necessary resistance for the nitro powder to burn properly. I'd like to see some reloading recipes for brass shells and nitro powders, and if they're roll crimped. At one time, I was up to 30grs of PB and was only getting bloopers with glued in OS cards. This was with the Magtech drawn brass shells. I've shot many a BP shell in my doubles and only cleaned what I could see.

I was watching a video on BP rifle cartridges and the fellow said the key to keeping BP residue/fouling from blowing back in the action , was to anneal the case mouths so they can seal in the chamber . I wonder if this is the case with brass shotshells as well .

I also read a method for reloading them was to use a press or wood dowel to exert 100lbs of downward force on the last overshot card when you glue it in place .


On the roll crimping I wonder if thats possible with machined cases ? I guess someone could try mocking up a load and trying it to see how the brass responds to it .

Theres a box of new 10 ga Alcan brass cases on GB but I dont think its possible to get primers for them anymore .

[William Davis]

Turned brass does not spring back like drawn, and can be very difficult to size. Single shot rifle many have given up on RMC turned, only using it if drawn not available. Aneling may help Turned but I doubt it, it can improve seal in drawn cases as long as you don’t overdo it.

No matter who sells them Source for most brass shot shell and unusual sizing dies is CH4D die company. They are the experts call them at 740 397 7214. Google search for CH4D polluted by paid ads use www.ch4d.com to go direct to their site

William

[6pt-Sika]

Originally Posted by William Davis

No matter who sells them Source for most brass shot shell and unusual sizing dies is CH4D die company. They are the experts call them at 740 397 7214.

I've dealt with CH-4D a number of times and as expected they are great !

The guy that owns the company is a wealth of knowledge in his own right !

Looks like each time I call and he answers the phone or I get transferred to him my simple question turns into an enjoyable one hour conversation on the initial question and a bunch of other stuff

[Paul Harm]

When I shot Magtecks and BP I used the cheapest I could find - believe Grafs is the cheapest, next is GOEX. A 3 dram [ 82grs by volume ] load of 2F can be reduced to 70grs if using 3F. I liked 70grs of 3F and 1oz of shot in the 12 or short 10. 1 1/8oz would work also with that powder charge. I used a Mec 600 Jr to reload em. That way a 10ga OP wad and 11ga cushion wad could be used for plastic shells, 10ga OP, OS, and cushion for brass shells. I got a good tight seal with them. A 46 bushing gives around 70grs, one cut in half about 80, and no bushing 105. I plugged the inspection hole with a dowel. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to clean a double. Use two buckets of hot water, one soapy. A rod with a cleaning jag and patch to pull and push the water up and down, a couple of patches to dry the barrels, one with WD-40 and another with Rem-oil and you're done.

[Harry Collins]

I used Ox-Yoke Wonder lub, but would find rust when checking. I now use Fluid Film. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...riment.823209/