"Back on Face" Problems

[Autumn Daze]

Frank, Great pictures and tutorial. Thanks! I remember when those Kurt Anglelok vises first came out. Thay added so much versatility to the Bridgeport mill verses the old Bridgeport vise. Another nice feature of the Kurt vise is that for every pound of force along the axis of the screw the vise exerts a half pound of force down. Just sayin....

[Eldon Goddard]

Frank,
Thanks for all the help I have decided to use dycem blue as the soot method is just to dirty. Got black on everything from the garage door to my work bench and everything else. The old hinge pin I took out was tapered I checked it with my calipers, however I do not know if it is the original but I would assume it is as the finish on the gun I am pretty sure is original.

[Cold Spring]

Eldon, I am happy to help. Ya know, I should have qualified my earlier statement about Ithaca and Fox hinge pins. I know for a fact that A H Fox and Ithaca NID hinge pins are dead straight because I've rejointed a few of each. HOWEVER, I've never done the earlier Ithaca Flues model and for all I know its hinge pin is tapered. Any Syracuse Arms enthusists out there? SAC used tapered hinge pins and are a challenge to get back on the face because of that design. I did one SAC gun and all I have to say is, never again. Possibly the best way to do that is press out the old pin, fixture the barrels so they are dead on the face + a little bit for wearing in, then line-bore/ream on the mill for an oversize straight or tapered pin. Of course the new pin will have to be dressed off on the sides of the frame which would be very difficult without marring the frame colors on both sides. Just thinking out loud..... Good luck with your project.