Sterlingworth

TARNATION !!! · 07-06-2011, 01:54 PM

2 1/2" chambers F+ F+ chokes

Sear axle set screws getting a penetrating oil soak so I can get the sears out and finally have the butt stock removed.

Got time to mow the grass now.

Cheers,
Jack

TARNATION !!! · 07-06-2011, 04:45 PM

Mowing grass is over-rated. Trimmed a few tree branches and played with the sear axle set screw. It was of course a buggered screw head and took some judicious work and had to grind a couple of my good tips but got it out without breaking half the head off. In its history, it had a sear replaced based on one looks more like a new sear and the other looks its 90 years. So, the stock is off.

Bob, you wondered about it being a replacement. I don't see any serial number like on the Parkers and don't know if there is any means to tell beyond that. If it is replacement wood, it was a long time ago. Typical oil blackened head. The checkering looks like well worn checkering does, so my guess, unless there is a means to prove otherwise, is that the stock is original to the gun.

For the stock guys who read this - is there a "home" recipe to de-oil the wood? Some method that isn't yet known to the State of California to kill me and all my progeny for generations to come.

Cheers,
Jack

Brent Francis · 07-06-2011, 05:36 PM

32 inch barrels and ejectors you should log into the fox forum and make them crazy. Ive got a 16 sterly with 28 inch barrel and ejectors that I really like. The only problem Ive had is the forend wood is very thin on the back with the ejector guns and it has a tendancy to crack. Also that woodscrew that goes to the back doesnt have much wood to grab and they have a tendancy to pull out.
Thats on the philidelpia models the savage has a better forend.

07-06-2011, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brent Francis

32 inch barrels and ejectors you should log into the fox forum and make them crazy. Ive got a 16 sterly with 28 inch barrel and ejectors that I really like. The only problem Ive had is the forend wood is very thin on the back with the ejector guns and it has a tendancy to crack. Also that woodscrew that goes to the back doesnt have much wood to grab and they have a tendancy to pull out.
Thats on the philidelpia models the savage has a better forend.

A good friend has a AE 16 Fox with 28" Krupp barrels, DT, Ejectors, splinter forearm and has had that same problem- we reinforced the thin area inside with a coat of Acra-Glas- and wrapped masking tape around the wood screw threads for a tighter fit- problem solved. My 20 has a slightly "beefier" forearm and buttstock than my friend's Phila mfg. 16- Many of the pre-1913 LC Smith ejector guns with splinter forearm also had possible cracks due to the thin cross-section at the rear of the forearm wood- my 3E (made in 1911) started to develop a hairline crack- Acra-Glas and taping the screw slightly solved that problem- the extractor guns- possible not so much strain on the shoe of the forearm iron- just my guess.. My 20 Fox has the serial number under the trigger guard, stamped in the inletted groove just as on the Parkers- perhaps a later concept for Fox after they were bought out by Savage-Stevens in 1929???

OH Osthaus · 07-06-2011, 06:44 PM

[QUOTE=Francis Morin;45962]
My 20 Fox has the serial number under the trigger guard, stamped in the inletted groove just as on the Parkers- perhaps a later concept for Fox after they were bought out by Savage-Stevens in 1929???QUOTE]

the philly foxes I have stocked had serial numbers on the original wood.

07-06-2011, 08:18 PM

Check it out--

TARNATION !!! · 07-06-2011, 08:59 PM

This image snagged off the Fox forum, not my gun. That said, mine also has the corrugated metal strip. Discussion has it that they were used for some Philadelphia guns. In the blackened stock head area on mine I can see one stamped number in the wood and it is one of the numbers in my SN so.... more info to suggest the stock is original. Maybe when the blackened oil is removed, I will be able to see more numbers.
Cheers,
Jack