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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
John D.
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03-12-2025, 06:54 PM
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#25
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Member
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Member Info
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,202
Thanks: 4,996
Thanked 3,213 Times in 1,041 Posts
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I have a few newb questions. How does that stock come off, by removing the (2) tang and trigger guard screws? With no through bolt? I'm guessing not, but are the extractor changeable to ejectors? Can the auto safety be easily disabled?
If I decided to remove the checkered butt and install a pad, what would be considered correct? I like a black Pachmayr SC pad but maybe some red/orange/brown pad would be a better choice. I'm not sold on leather covered pads, just personal preference.
Lastly, how do SK IN and SK OUT translate as far as choke constriction? It seems like it might mean different thing from different manufacturers? I've shot 50 skeet and 50 SC targets and it seemed break 'em just fine.
Steve,
To answer some of your questions which I don't think have been answered:
1. No through bolt. Trigger guard off. Floor plate has to come off. Hammers and springs removed. Two screws through stock. Instructions on this site. Why do it?
2. You would buy another gun before converting one to ejector.
3. Auto safety can be done away with, but stock has to be removed and barrel for tang screw removed from wood to remove rod. Not worth it unless you have correct screwdrivers and knowledge to do it.
4. Please, Please do not cut that checkered butt under any circumstances.
5. .615 is a 20 gauge bore. Have someone measure the bore/constriction. right barrel is skeet out (longer shot), should be tighter than the left for skeet in (closer shot). You may find both close to the same, but far less than .010 (ten thousandths) constriction in both. Skeet in may be close to cylinder, skeet out more choke. Only way to know is to measure them. Thus for hunting say quail from underfoot with this gun you would shoot left first, then right.
You could never "create" this gun for what you paid for it. Vent rib, GH Grade 2, reblued barrels and parts, case hardening, checkered new wood, checkered butt, and a new beaver tail forearm. Not counting opening chokes, etc. I would love to own and hunt with this gun. The only thing you really need to do is to measure the barrel thickness to make sure someone did not hone/polish the barrels and make them too thin.
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The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Jerry Harlow For Your Post:
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