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#3 | ||||||
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Thank you for all of the replies. I was most interested in partially pushing the pin out or taking the pin out completely, timing it correctly and then reassembly.
I did not know if it was wise to back the slotted part of the pin perhaps halfway out and then using a nylon punch or small nylon hammer to gently tap the slotted head to dislodge the pin toward the right side, so it could be adjusted by turning, having been marked in advance, much as one drives out a pressed in stud by backing the nut to the top of the bolt and driving it out. I see many guns that have been reassembled with most of the screws out of time, even ones with the Roll Pin head on the right side, and yet no one will take the time to try to correct these items on an otherwise good looking piece. These all are great advice, and if anyone has any more "tricks" I would be interested. I am sure there are pins that are frozen in place and do not come out without greater difficulty. I would have to think penetrating oil placed days in advance may help the situation. |
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#4 | ||||||
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Jerry, The joint roll screw is over an inch long. If you really need to try and remove it I would insert a drill blank or drift punch in the screw hole and use a press. Some joint roll pins are a real tight press fit. Be careful.
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"Much care is bestowed to make it what the Sportsman needs-a good gun"-Charles Parker |
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#5 | ||||||
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I can see why they remain out of time. I've tried to turn the screw using the proper size Brownell's bit with both the Brownell's handle as well as a Chapman ratchet attached to the bit and it would not budge. In my estimation the receiver I have had the roll pin inserted incorrectly before the receiver was recase colored and the pin will probably stay as is forever since to turn the screw slot with even more pressure is going to result in some damage somewhere. Has anyone else experienced this and what is the solution other than just quitting? Thanks.
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