Brass Shell Loading:

[jeffery c]

I got 39 of these brass cases to today from Richard!
A few questions come to mind as I get started:
Should I anneal the necks? How do you remove the factory roll crimp? Should I anneal the ends and use a plumb bob tapped in to remove the roll crimp. Lastly, what primers and wads should I use? — Looks like large rifle and 11 gauge, is that right? Should I use magnum primers for black powder?
Thanks!
By the way, I remember when they used to sell water glass at the grocery store. I never knew what for, maybe canning, or something to do with sealing cardboard boxes?

[Bruce P Bruner]

I will attempt to answer some of your questions.
I didn't see factory roll crimps in your photo. I have one empty vintage brass case with a big roll crimp, I haven't a clue how to remove it.
Annealing is a good precaution for case life. That said I haven't had any split cases, but my loads are very mild.
Supplies:
I use Large Pistol Primers, I don't believe Magnum Primers are necessary. The consensus on Magnum Primers for BPCR is they should not be used for numerous negative reasons. Perhaps in subzero temperatures?
For 12 Gauge:
Circle Fly brand Wads:
11 Gauge 1/8" Nitro Cards. However they are not a tight fit and "perhaps" using 10 Gauge would be a better fit. I'm ordering some just to find out.
11 Gauge Fiber Wads. They fit tight in my hulls.
10 Gauge Over Shot Cards.
I use a variety of Black Powder, Goex FFg, Old Eynsford 1-1/2 or FFg, mostly whatever I have on hand. Sometimes I go cheap and use Graf & Sons brand. I also use the "Holy Black" in BPCR so my inventory varies.
Your favorite method to seal the Overshot Cards.
Make sure the primer pockets are prepped. When the Primer is properly inserted they must be flush with the case head. If they stick up you would stress the shotgun & worse when closing the action or fireing, not good. The vintage original brass have only needed cleaning in my experience. The Magtech are hit and miss. Their 12"s didn't require much preparation. The 16's: Needed to uniform the flash holes, they were too small to be able to remove the primer after fireing. They also weren't deep enough or big enough around. With proper tools all of those defects can be overcome.
Others will give you additional help, I'm sure.