Just my two cents. I spoke to Mr. Dan Morgan about this, a barrel man whom I respect. And I also spoke to a gunsmith whom I greatly admired his work before he retired. Both said essentially the same thing. Then I spoke to Mr. Dale Edmonds.
Mr. Morgan said if a set of barrels, for example Parker, went into the boil and there was not a single sign of air escaping from around the ribs then you were OK. But if he saw any sign of air coming out from the ribs, the barrels required the ribs to be relaid before they would be blued. Parker probably never allowed a set to pass if they showed any sign of voids in the solder.
The second gunsmith told me that he for years did not believe that a weep hole was necessary. But he disassembled a set that had voids in the solder under the ribs and had been rust blued. The damage of the water left in the ribs and between the barrels was severe. Henceforth, he drilled a weep hole to be sure he got all of the water and water displacing oil from the cavity.
Now Mr. Edmonds told me he used a heat gun to get the barrels extremely hot so if there were voids, everything would evaporate, and the water displacing oil would also get rid of the moisture.
That is why I feel much more at ease when I do a Fox, Ithaca, or even a Parker where a weep hole exists, and I can blow air in to remove the now milky water displacing oil, and then I submerge them again in oil, and allow the barrels to drain. Sometimes it takes days for it to all come out.
The question I had about a Parker with no weep hole and a solid soldering job, did they wait until the barrels were finished before drilling and tapping the front sight to avoid an entry point for water. I would think they did.
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