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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
On most Parkers I have to remove the sears in order to remove the stock.
This illustrates a top lever plunger. Earlier Parkers have a top lever spring that can be removed with a pair of small needle nosed vice grips. If that spring is broken save it and rework one from Dixie Gunworks to match thickness and length.
I found Brian's tutorial, which is what I need for my friend. Thanks, Brian. However, is there some trick or danger in prying the sear springs loose and replacing them? I didn't see any mention of "sear springs" in the Gun Digest or Brian Dudley's tutorials. Thanks again, Brian.
I have found two types of sear springs. As I remember the earlier style is a single spring for each sear and the later spring was comprised of two springs connected by a bar. Again as I recall the earlier spring needed to be compressed to be removed and the latter could be pulled out.