What's wrong with this picture

[TARNATION !!!]

And we have a winner with John's critical eye. I have never removed a roll pin and the roll but I have these orphaned frames and 3 still had the roll and pin. I decided to play. I removed the roll and pin from a Trojan and learned it takes pretty hefty smacking. Also learned if I wanted to do this with a good gun not to use a flat punch. When I inserted this assembly into the D frame, it was a bit tighter than when in the Trojan. I remembered a set of punches with a round face and that didn't flatten the pin when re-inserting. Anyway, just playing today and definitely a D should have the slotted screw and pin, which are two pieces. I have started to appreciate the refinements in the Trojan, which were really cost cutting I'm sure but they are every bit as functional. By redesigning the top lever, Parker saved the fiddling with the round bolt/square bolt assembly. They also used a single sear spring to function for both sides and a single pin for the roll, saving the cost of drilling and tapping the pin and making the screw to fit. (mind you it doesn't look as nice imho). The forend iron has quite a different set-up which probably cost 1/10th of the Anson Deeley latch. Anyway, playing today but Charlie, I"m mostly playing with the '45 Farmall parts.
Cheers,
Jack

[TARNATION !!!]

So here are the two types of roll pins that both fit the roll. The simple pin is from the Trojan. The screw and pin is from a hammerless gun. When you look at all those threads, then add moisture and 100 years you can imagine why it is so hard to undo the screw which is why we see so many buggered screw heads on the roll pin. Never really any need to remove these pins unless there is some major catastrophy.