Ray,
If the sanded area is not too low your solution is viable, I have done this successfully, even around action sides and tangs. When done right it can be invisible. Sand the entire stock to 320 in normal preparation. Make sure the damaged area is smoothly sanded, no crags or broken fibers. If you plan on adding stain to the stock, stain the damaged area first to exactly the color you plan on finishing the rest of the stock to.
Use red box Acraglas (not the gel) for this procedure. Apply release agent to the buttplate (sides, top, underneath - everywhere) and install it. Mix the glas according to instructions and apply to the area liberally. Dome it up, make sure that there is enough material as it sets to settle and leave an appreciable buildup above the damaged area. Let it dry for at least a day. You can break the buttplate away after 10 - 12 hours if you feel it necessary and reinstall it for the rest of the cure.
Once the glas is good and cured - chisel or file and sand it down to the level of the wood and blend it out with the rest of the stock. Make sure the "edge" where the glas meets the wood in the body of the stock is perfectly sanded and feathered together so it is seamless. Apply stain to the rest of the stock now if you are staining. Now finish the stock as you normally would, finishing right over your repaired area as if it were wood.
If you're careful and take your time your repair should be more than acceptable. You will be looking "through" the glas to the wood underneath. This is why it is so important to make sure the wood is clean with no broken fibers or unusual damage underneath - it will show like you're looking at it through a window. This procedure only works well if the discrepancy is around 1/16" or less, preferably less. Sometimes you can pull it off up to 1/8" but it depends on the location.
Good luck, I hope this helps you.
Best regards,
Dan May
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