Parker Bros. 1890 NH 10 Gauge 61155

[Tad Tadlock]

I appreciate y'all taking the time to look at and comment on my soon to be new to me Parker. I don't think that I did too bad for $650 out the door.

On the floor plate screws, should I check how tight they are and then if they are tight take them out and see if they align better when swapped? I need to investigate proper disassembly before I just start taking out screws. I would use appropriate screw drivers. I have a set.

I haven't had the chance to weigh the gun. The smith told me that the chokes were full and full. I don't know the exact dimensions on the stock. I am a fair sized fellow and it felt good and seemed to fit me pretty well as far as I could tell with actually shooting the gun.

Once I get her home, I'll clean her up and take some better photos and measurements.

I am pretty proud to have a Parker. When I was younger my great grandmother used to keep an old Parker that had belonged to my great grandfather behind the door of her bedroom. I got in trouble for looking at it more than once. When I was a teenager, I used to clean it for her once in a while. She told me that gun would come to me. I was stationed overseas when she passed and no one knew what happened to that old gun.

I have always hunted but I only recently owned doubles when I started Cowboy Action Shooting. I plan on shooting her at least occasionally in some cowboy matches and getting my Everett Hitch on. I know he had an 8, but I reckon I'll get by with a 10.

As soon as I can get her off of layaway and get some ammo, I definitely plan on shooting her and taking her hunting. I looked at RTS and Buffalo Arms. They both want want about $3 a round for store bought ammo. I might have to get a couple of boxes just to have a little ammo on hand until I get set up to reload for 10 Gauge.

I sure wish that Magtech made those $1 brass hulls like they do for all the other gauges. The cheapest new ones that I can find are the Parker Bros. marked ones at Track of the Wolf for $7.49 each. I think having some brass hulls would be some serious style points at a CAS match. So I may have to break down and buy a few.

I reckon that I need to get a MEC and a short kit for it. There doesn't seem to be many other options.

[TARNATION !!!]

Originally Posted by Tad Tadlock

On the floor plate screws, should I check how tight they are and then if they are tight take them out and see if they align better when swapped? I need to investigate proper disassembly before I just start taking out screws. I would use appropriate screw drivers. I have a set.

Tad: Good that you have the proper screw drivers. Do not tighten the floor plate screws on this gun. They look from the pics to be pretty flush with the plate. The left and right screws (as they sit under the left and right barrels, not as you look at the floor plate) are so far from being aligned with the long axis of the gun, they are most likely in the wrong holes. You can remove these two screws and not have something fall apart inside. I would remove the one under the right barrel first and check if it has a score line across the end. If so, that indicates it should be under the left barrel of the gun and you should swap them. Also, the rear floor plate screw appears over-tightened. You may have to live with that but you could back it off until it too is aligned with the long axis of the gun. If it still feels tight, you are ok but if it feels loose, I would snug it up again.

This image is correct alignment


This image shows the screws removed and the score line for the screw under the left barrel.