1st Phase of GH Restoration

[Ruff Hunter]

Brad, when you say that you skip the lacquer step, are you referring to lacquering the bores? If so, how do you get the log wood blackening out of the bores?

[Derek Iske]

Originally Posted by Justin Julian

Brad, when you say that you skip the lacquer step, are you referring to lacquering the bores? If so, how do you get the log wood blackening out of the bores?

Justin, see Brad's response on page 3. Very smart idea, I do not want to deal with the lacquer on the inside of the bores.

Oscars articles are in The double gun journal spring 2003, summer 1997 and Fall 1997.

I can only speak to what I do in rust bluing for plugging the bores. I use 36" lengths of 5/16" threaded rod through the bore with a rubber stopper on each end (with a hole drilled through them) and a washer/nut on each end holding the stoppers in tight. I buy the stoppers from my local Lowes. The hole in the rubber stoppers is drilled also 5/16" so the fit is tight around the rod. But there is enough still there for air to vent. I can always see bubbles coming out when in the water. The amount of water that is allowed in is minimal. I use the Mark Lees Express Blue which is very fast acting. I can do a set of barrels from white metal to finished in 5 hours. So I have no worry about water in the bores causing any issues. When I pull the plugs there is just water droplets in the bores which clean out nicely. However, if you are doing a slow rust process taking many days, I would not recommend allowing any water to sit in the bores.

I personally believe that once anyone uses Mark Lees, they will never go back to anything else. Especially if you are doing a lot of barrels. The results are just fantastic and the working time is so quick.

I can only speak in regards to anything from the point of my own experiences and I would not expect anyone to take it as law.

For etching, you will want to plug with separate stoppers (rubber or wood) that will not allow anything in.