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I have some Red Willow brand 577 turned brass cases that I have used for several years with no significant problems. They are prone to cracking if you don't anneal them frequently. All of my books including those on case forming are in storage so I'm unable to see what type of brass may be recommended for turning cases.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dennis E. Jones For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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Dennis, can you explain the annealing procedure and tell us how we are to determine when it should be done.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bill Murphy For Your Post: |
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Thanks guys for your help so far,
Steve
__________________
From where the sun Don`t shine Steve |
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#6 | ||||||
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In Mike Franzen's article in the Fall 2015 Issue of Parker Pages on loading 2 7/8" brass shells he tells us that he got his supply of new brass shells from Track of the Wolf.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Catego...-SHELL-10-2-78 .
__________________
"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
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#7 | |||||||
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I anneal every 5 times I load the cases, remember these are rifle cases. The cases get brittle from cold working the brass when re-sizing them. Less of a problem if you don't resize. But sooner or later a case will expand enough they don't want to chamber without sizing. As to when you should anneal that is hard to predict. If you start seeing neck cracks, you've waited way too long. Drawn cases seem to hold up a little better. The every five times loaded works for me. To anneal them I use a propane torch, the kind that screws on to a small propane bottle. I hold the case in my bare fingers and heat the open end of the case until I can just see it start to show a slight color change and then quench it in cold water. Some people heat them red hot, I don't recommend doing that as that amount of heat will make the brass dead soft. They need to have some spring back to release from the chamber. I hold the cases in my bare fingers to keep from over heating them. Believe me when I say you will not want to hold on to one with your fingers long enough to damage it by over heating. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dennis E. Jones For Your Post: |
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#8 | ||||||
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I do the same thing except I cut the shop lights off. You can see the color easier in the dark. Better to under aneal not over aneal. Tourch puts out enough light to see. Bucket of water between my feet let go of the case it falls in the water.
William |
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The Following User Says Thank You to William Davis For Your Post: |
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#9 | ||||||
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So am I better off with a softer brass or harder brass?
__________________
From where the sun Don`t shine Steve |
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#10 | ||||||
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Personally, I would use hard brass and anneal the case mouth. If the base of the case is too soft it would expand and not spring back making it hard to extract and re-chamber.
After seeing that you can buy paper tubes to rebuild paper ten gauge cases using the original metal case head, I started thinking about looking for brass tubing to use instead of the replacement paper tubes. If the correct tubing could be found I believe you could replace the paper tube with a brass one with little effort. Another thought was to machine the case head and then soft solder a brass tube of the proper size to the head. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dennis E. Jones For Your Post: |
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