Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dudley
I meant Soft soldered. Pardon my horrible auto correct on my phone. Never heard of Wolf solder either. Though one could speculate.
And when I say re-blue, I mean complete reblue. I would not think the results of spot bluing would be very desirable. But hey, some don't care what things look like.
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Soft solder.. got it. Brian look. Apparently I've gotten off to a bad start in this forum. I saw your website and can appreciate the work that you do. Let me say this before I leave and never post here again. I take a lot of pride in the kind of work that I turn out for my customers and have for many years. Before I opened my shop, I did the same kind of work you do now for nothing more than the cost of materials. I work from home in a little shop out back.
Did I mention that I take pride in my work? Yes I did and I do! Sure I do what everyone else wants these days i.e. Duarcoat, Cerekote, etc etc but what I love doing the most is bringing back the old finishes. Slow rust bluing is always my first choice when re-bluing any firearm simply because, it's more durable than hot caustic bluing. Sure it takes a lot more work but the results are always worth it! and nothing beats bringing back a lost Damascus pattern in these old doubles! A lot of work involved? You bet it is but like I said before, it's always worth it in the end!
You say that spot bluing would not be desirable? Perhaps not but I suppose it really comes down to how much you are touching up in the first place. In the case of this double I'm repairing, there will be almost no trace of original finish missing once the job is completed. A touch up is all that is warranted. On top of that, I was only asked to repair the "loop" and was not asked to restore the barrels. A job I most certainly would prefer to do.
In any event, I apologize for spinning things up. That was not the intent when I mistakenly asked for help here.
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