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Unread 03-27-2010, 12:07 PM   #1
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Dean Romig
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The possibility however, of relatively fast ocurring corrosion would concern me if using aluminum or copper in contact with a dissimilar metal (steel).
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Unread 03-27-2010, 01:44 PM   #2
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Thanks to all for their input. I believe the shimming idea is a sound solution especially in situations where the screw is indexed somewhere between the 9 and 12 o'clock positions. However, I think steel shim stock, cut into washers, would be the best material to use since it can be aquired in various thicknesses and, being a similar metal, would not likely promote corrosion.

As I wrote in my original post, in my situation the screw is just short (approximately 30 degrees) of being correctly indexed. Adding enough shimming material under the screw head to bring it to the 9 o'clock position would, if my math is correct and assuming the screw has approximately 32 TPI, require about .026 of shim material. That just seems to me to be too much shimming.

Another option ... If approximately .005" of material was removed from the underside of the screw head the same results would likely be achieved. I fully realize that removing any metal on a gun had better be well thought out in advance, but this solution seems so simple and innocuous.

I'm looking forward to your thoughts.
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Unread 03-27-2010, 03:01 PM   #3
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Larry, Check your PM.
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Unread 03-28-2010, 08:47 AM   #4
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Default Maybe yes- maybe no here!!

[quote=Dean Romig;15825]The possibility however, of relatively fast ocurring corrosion would concern me if using aluminum or copper in contact with a dissimilar metal (steel).

Interesting! Aluminum foil or sheet copper should have no problem with contact with any of the carbon range steels used by Parker Bros.

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Unread 03-28-2010, 09:21 AM   #5
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Francis,The screw shoulders all the way to the hinge pin and the threads are very deep already.The proper way to index the screw without removing the hinge pin would be to remove a few thousands at a time from the back side of the screw head. You will be suprised at how much the screw will move with only a few thousands removed. Go slow...a little at a time...checking constantly....
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Go slow- words of wisdom indeed-
Unread 03-28-2010, 07:46 PM   #6
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Default Go slow- words of wisdom indeed-

[quote=Dave Suponski;15848]Francis,The screw shoulders all the way to the hinge pin and the threads are very deep already.The proper way to index the screw without removing the hinge pin would be to remove a few thousands at a time from the back side of the screw head. You will be suprised at how much the screw will move with only a few thousands removed. Go slow...a little at a time...checking constantly....--

I have never removed a hinge pin screw, apparently you have and also refit the screw head to get the proper indexing

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Unread 03-28-2010, 07:50 PM   #7
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Francis,No I am not aware of any publication for Parker guns the lists screw sizes.Yes I have had a few hinge screws out.They are an extra fine thread a little over .250 in diameter if memory serves....
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Unread 03-28-2010, 11:57 PM   #8
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Dave; Are they 1/4 - 24? That is the size of Springfield 1903 trigger gaurd to frame mounting threads. They are designated 1/4 - 24 NS (national special). I was able to buy the taps and dies on special order through Van Hornes Hardware in Fultonville NY to make a T handle set to inlet Springfield Sporters.
I have had a couple of out of register framescrews over the years and wonder how it happens. Perhaps the threaded mate was misaligned after frame recase. This is about the toughest Parker screw to move, and I can think of no reason for it to meander.

Best, Austin
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Unread 03-29-2010, 08:06 AM   #9
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Austin,If I remember right the TPI is at least 32 or maybe more.
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