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Opening a Trojan Grade 12 Gauge--
Unread 07-31-2014, 09:19 AM   #1
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Grantham Forester
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Default Opening a Trojan Grade 12 Gauge--

A hunting friend has a later Trojan 12- std 28" M&F, two triggers- and the series without the small "doll's-headed" rib extension. If you are just opening and closing this fine shotgun, without loads in the tubes, smooth as silk. But if loaded, and you fire the front trigger (right side barrel) and then unbreech the gun to remove the fired hull, there is a bit of "stick-ness" and a slight hesitation when you push the top lever with your thumb to do this- When you close it, fine, nice and smooth- BUT- If you fire the rear trigger (left side barrel) only, and not the front trigger, smooth as silk-

Now here's what strikes me as strange- If you shoot both barrels, the front trigger first, then the rearmost trigger, same "sticky-ness", BUT, if you reverse the order, firing the rear trigger first, then the front one, and open the breech- smooth as silk--

Safety functions perfectly, and the trigger pulls on a Lyman digital readout trigger pull gauge are 4.35 lbs. front trigger and 5.15 lbs. rear trigger (aprox.)--

Dry firing the gun, with the forearm and barrels removed, and placing a block of soft pine on the standing breech, and depth miking the imprinted firing pin tips for depth and evenness, checks out 100%--What might be the cause(s) of this random and only front trigger firing scenario? Not a huge problem, the gun shoots to point of aim, has perfect balance at just under 7 & 1/2 lbs.- Just trying to learn something.
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Unread 07-31-2014, 09:46 AM   #2
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Interesting situation.
What kind of ammo is being used?
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No reloads- Factory new hulls
Unread 07-31-2014, 04:30 PM   #3
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Default No reloads- Factory new hulls

RST 2 & 3/4" 1 & 1/8th ounce loads- both No 7 & 1/2 and No 8 chilled lead target loads-
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Unread 07-31-2014, 06:06 PM   #4
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My bet is that something is causing the right tumbler to re-cock out of time. This would allow the firing pin tip to stay in the fired primer's indent too long, and not withdraw in time to allow the gun to break without noticeable drag.

This is just a guess. A hands-on inspection by a qualified double gunsmith is necessary to determine the actual issue at hand.
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I wondered about that-
Unread 07-31-2014, 07:06 PM   #5
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Default I wondered about that-

I also wondered about the coil hammer spring for the right side barrel, as usually, the right side or, more open choked in most cases, barrel is usually fired first in field hunting situations. Who can you recommend as being Parker qualified? Thank you!!
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Unread 08-01-2014, 08:35 AM   #6
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Since you're in the "midwest" I'd say send the gun to Brad Bachelder. It may simply need a strip-and-clean to work correctly... but he'll know.
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