16 Gauge PH sn 138556--

[Old and Reliable]

Dave Suponski was kind enough to detail this older King actioned gun for me. I have sent in my check and papers for a PGCA research letter- my guess (SWAG maybe?) is 1906-1907--

Harry Collins was also kind enough to sell me a new top lever leaf spring- with the rear location pin- believe he obtained it from Dixie- Thank you Harry-

I kept the original spring- broken at mid-point on the leaf that bottoms into the top lever "pocket" and it also had the rear location pin- and the inside of the top tang has both a milled slot and a hole drilled about halfway into the tang- to stop the spring from moving back out of battery I should guess__

All the other mechanics are fine, I installed the new spring, BUT- it does not quite bottom- I checked it for dims against the original- dead money- So, my question is_ to get the right spring tension on the top lever, do I need to move the new spring ahead so it will "bottom"- and if so, how do I bypass the stop or positioning pin? Thanks--

[Harry Collins]

Francis,

The Top Lever is centered as if the barrels were on and the gun closed.

You have compressed the spring and inserted the tips into the frame.

The spring pin is in the hole on the frame.

The spring tip has not bottomed/caught the lever?

Or, the spring has caught the lever, but not bottomed into the cut out?

Harry

[Old and Reliable]

Yes to the first three- not 100% sure on 4 and or 5- I used a small but powerful flashlite and it seemed that the leaf of the spring that engages the notch of the top lever hadn't "bottomed" into that cut- But the location pin was firmly in the drilled hole for same in the tang--

Also when I looked the receiver and tangs over, after cleaning out years of black oil residue- at first I thought it was a burr on the top tang shoulder left barrel side- but it is a flat headed set screw, some Kroil and the right Grace screwdriver and it came out cleanly- NF threads and a unthreaded almost conical tip- so I cleaned out the tapped hole and the set screw and replaced it, after dressing the head and groove with a fine file- What is the purpose of that screw pls?- I have a guess, but would value your opinion-

Another thought- as I have some Smiths and also strip, clean and replace some parts (NOT single triggers or ejectors though) if worn--having the Brophy specs. book is invaluable, even to an amateur like myself, all the parts, the metallurgy and the heat treating specs when applicable, are called out. Is there such a book for the Parkers?

PS- went back and tried this-as I have the broken leaf spring- original to the gun, the stop pin is almost at the very radius at the bend- but on the later Dixie gun works spring you sent me, the pin is ahead or toward the two outer leaves (leafs?) just about a heavy 1/64th"-if I invert the new Dixie spring, it will bottom perfectly and the top lever will function properly locks to dead center on top tang, and the trip inside the receiver well releases the lever, as do the barrels as well- BUT- then the spring is not contained or stopped from rearward travel by the pin, and trying to move the existing drilled and bottomed stop pin hole forward towards the breech is not practical- not enough "meat" and as the metal was case hardened (still has some color in protected areas) there is also that to consider-

[Harry Collins]

Francis,

I am afraid the spring I sent you will not work in your PH. That is the failing of Dixie springs. I was told by Larry DelGrego that Parker had three sizes of top lever springs, one for hammer guns and two for hammerless in addition to the new style. Others here have had the same thing happen to them as you have. I had it happen to me once with a Dixie spring and had to take a 1 1/4" hammer gun spring from Dixie and and cut it down. When finished it was just a tad longer than the one you have. If you like you can send that one back and I will return your check. I have seen Parkers with two holes drilled into the tang for the top lever spring. You might order the longer spring from Dixie and work it down or you might be able to beg one from DelGrego.

Sorry about the part not working. The highway to you know where is paved with good intentions.

Harry

[Old and Reliable]

Said by the late Capt. Paul A. Curtis in his 1934 great book (my "Bible") Guns and Gunning. You just proved it, in spades my friend. I'll keep the spring, but I very much appreciate your offer for the return. I have labelled boxes and zip-bags with springs, firing pins, misc- and if being a "pack-rat" were one of the qualifications for being a good gunsmith, I'd have that hurdle well overcome, that's for sure-

I solved the problem, at least for my point in time- I took the original spring- it had broken cleanly about half-way on the leaf side that pushes against the top lever pocket- and taken a smaller length leaf spring (after I did a compresssion test via pliers)- measured and cut down with a Dremel cut-off thin wheel (grinding stones too much heat input- destroy temper) the broken leg to almost the developed radius at the bend- nested it over the smaller spring, inserted, popped the locating pin in place- Bingo- works like a charm and I have (with the stock still off- but sears and floor plate in place- cocked, dry fired, recocked- spring is "dead nuts" in place-

Now- in my opinion, as this is NOT an ejector gun, also as Dave S. has informed me the mainspring is a coil spring even in the earlier King 18 pc. actioned Parkers (as this PH 16 and the GHE 12 I have) opening and closing, one hammer down or both- the springs are NOT also involved in resetting the non-existent ejectors- also, as it is a small gauge (to me, anything less than a 12 is a small ga.) and I don't as yet have BP shells for it, it won't be fired as much as my 12's-

I bought it because I wanted another Winter gun project within my scope- the stock has very nice walnut for a PH grade, balance is perfect- 26" barrels undinged or reblued-ribs intact- muzzles touch- not a "cut-down" 28 or 30 gun--and for a 1906 era- has very shootable stock dims for me- 14.25 LOP from front trigger, 1.5 DAC 2.25 DAH- No cast- about 4% pitch (est'd)- should shoot 'right where I'm looking"- wish we have quails here-

Anyway Harry, many thanks for all your help. We all are indeed blessed to have some many fine gentlemen such as you and others willing to help out our "brother Parkerites"--