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Hi Unregistered,
On July 29th, this site will be moving..! No, really - it's "moving" to another physical location - including servers, gateways, routers - everything - including my coffee cup...
So, from the date of July 29th through July 30 or 31 (shooting for these dates, but - as always, I'm at the mercy of my ISP who has to install the lines to the new location - and we actually get them running ;) ). But - this site, cloud servers and main web will be OFF LINE.
Now, please save these dates!! Please - don't be "that guy" who emails me on the 30th to tell me you "can't open the Parker Website". I'll already know it is offline - and also know that you are "that guy"...
I'll take this notice up and down over the next week or so - and leave it up during the final few days before shutting it off on the 29th..
John D.
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05-09-2012, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 289
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I wonder of it's possible that it isn't a crack then ?????
Of course, what else could it be ?
I had the barrels inspected by "one of the best" - and he didn't really seem to see it (????). He never really gave me a good answer to "what IS it that I see ?" He lightly honed the bores, and that really cleaned up a lot of the minor pitting, but it didn't make the "crack" go away. "Off the record", he basically told me that "...if it was his gun, he'd just shoot it with light/appropriate loads."
As a layman, who am I to challenge his statement, but as an educated person - I know what I see, and I am uneasy...
I just wish it could be readily fixed by welding, without the weld looking real obvious.
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05-09-2012, 11:08 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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For piece of mind, you can use any of several NDT (Non Destructive Testing) methods to determine if what you're seeing is a real crack.
These methods include Radiographic inspection, Liquid penetrant inspection, Magnetic particle inspection or shear wave ultasonic inspection.
All of these can be performed by any of several nationwide testing companies, such as MQS, who have labs in all major manufacturing areas.
All, except Liquid penetrant, require expensive testing equipment, and are done by trained NDT, level II or Level III inspectors. You can buy a relatively inexpensive Liquid Penetrant test kit at most welding supply houses, and the basic test is not difficult, though level of severity in a detected result is only gotten from training and experience.
A less definitive test, but more a go-no go test is to use kerosene, which has a very low surface tension. Pour some kerosene down the barrel, making every effort to keep it from coming in contact with the outside. Allow it to sit a few minutes, drain it off, and dust the outside with baby powder. The kerosene will come through all but the tightest knit crack, and the baby powder will immediately absorb any that came through, showing a crack.
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to edgarspencer For Your Post:
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