Crack in VH barrel?
 

I have seen radial cracks in Damascus barrels, but I was just looking at a barrel that came from a VH that appears to have a crack about 1/2" long (looks pretty straight) running lengthwise about 4" below the choke. It looks like there was a dent raised from the area. Have any of you seen this sort of thing before? The barrel holds air pressure, but I haven't tried plugging it and filling it with gasoline to see if it actually leaks. I can sort of see it inside, but I'm not sure if I'm seeing a crack, or just remnants of the old dent.

If it is cracked can these be repaired? Or, is this yet another set of Parker barrels doomed to be cut?

If it can be repaired who can I send them to?

Thanks!! All thoughts and ideas welcome.

Cracked barrel
 

I believe Brad Bachelder can lazer weld them, 616-459-3636. Cheers, Tom

How common are these radial cracks in damascus barrels ? I have twist barrels, and there is something in the left tube that looks like a radial crack. Are these cracks common, do they tend to be superficial, are they a death knell to a set of barrels ?

...or, can they be welded, as has been suggested here ?

It's a shame, 'cause I love the gun.

Depending on it's orientation, a dent can turn into a crack when raised in twist barrels

1903 H Grade Lefever "Best London Damascus Twist" with fractured barrel

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../247636155.jpg

Crack where a dent was (inexpertly) raised

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../291896656.jpg

The only fracture that I would weld and then shoot would need to be very close to the muzzle (where the pressure is much lower) and with an adequate wall thickness.
NO WAY would I shoot a gun with a crack in a dent welded. The wall thickness would likely be quite thin.

Or you could try this :shock:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../366299217.jpg

JB Weld and some cold blue.

In all seriousness, I have seen a patch welded over a crack and the gun had shot fine for many years.

Not suggesting either of course. But maybe a person can defy convention, think outside the box. Cut the damaged barrel back and leave the other long. Write a Parker Pages article " A Most Unusual Parker" and wait for all the sages to pummel you.

Damn...

I guess I'll just use the right barrel.

Today Damascus or Twist barrels with cracks are pretty rare. A radial crack or seperation is usually the result of imperfect joining of the iron and steel rods and most guns with barrels with this occurance have long since been rebarreled or destroyed in some manner. I would think most guns that would have blown a barrel because of imperfections would have done so by now if they were shot regularly.

I wonder of it's possible that it isn't a crack then ?????

Of course, what else could it be ?

I had the barrels inspected by "one of the best" - and he didn't really seem to see it (????). He never really gave me a good answer to "what IS it that I see ?" He lightly honed the bores, and that really cleaned up a lot of the minor pitting, but it didn't make the "crack" go away. "Off the record", he basically told me that "...if it was his gun, he'd just shoot it with light/appropriate loads."

As a layman, who am I to challenge his statement, but as an educated person - I know what I see, and I am uneasy...

I just wish it could be readily fixed by welding, without the weld looking real obvious.

For piece of mind, you can use any of several NDT (Non Destructive Testing) methods to determine if what you're seeing is a real crack.
These methods include Radiographic inspection, Liquid penetrant inspection, Magnetic particle inspection or shear wave ultasonic inspection.
All of these can be performed by any of several nationwide testing companies, such as MQS, who have labs in all major manufacturing areas.
All, except Liquid penetrant, require expensive testing equipment, and are done by trained NDT, level II or Level III inspectors. You can buy a relatively inexpensive Liquid Penetrant test kit at most welding supply houses, and the basic test is not difficult, though level of severity in a detected result is only gotten from training and experience.
A less definitive test, but more a go-no go test is to use kerosene, which has a very low surface tension. Pour some kerosene down the barrel, making every effort to keep it from coming in contact with the outside. Allow it to sit a few minutes, drain it off, and dust the outside with baby powder. The kerosene will come through all but the tightest knit crack, and the baby powder will immediately absorb any that came through, showing a crack.