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#3 | ||||||
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Mr. Oliver:
Dean is correct. The materials you got with the gun should be considered "collectibles" and not used. Especially the brass cases. Brass often has a tendency to "age crack" and/or embrittle with time. This is why various armed forces sold off ammunition after so many years. The didn't consider it reliable any longer. Best to stay with current components if you intend to shoot the gun. And an inspection by a competent double gunsmith would be advised as well. |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to John Campbell For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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I have old original brass shells. The 10ga use large rifle or pistol primers, the 12ga small. I would think one or the other would fit. Sounds like you got a real nice buy.
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Paul Harm |
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#5 | ||||||
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Old primers sometimes contained mercury, and it was the mercuric primers that could cause the embrittlement in the brass, as well as contribute to corrosion of the bore.
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The Following User Says Thank You to John Mazza For Your Post: |
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#6 | ||||||
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Thanks for the replies. I only got excited about all of this when I realized I had all of the components to possibly shoot some shells that this gun may have shot over a 100 years ago. Does it hurt the collector value to clean the shells? I thought it might which is why I just cleaned 2.
The gun is mechanically sound and I have shot 8 boxes or so of RST's through it. I posted some pictures when I bought it back in the spring. Its a grade 2 with 32" barrels. I was loading my newer brass 10 gauge shells and thought about using brass shells in this 12. That's what got me started on this and I was curious as to how old the shells and primers might be. I appreciate the advice and I will not use the shells. I must admit though, the 2 I cleaned fit perfectly in the chambers... Thanks again, Jay |
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#7 | ||||||
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If you have multiples, I see no reason to not load a few and shoot them, albeit with fresh components. If you're shooting the gun, why sweat loading and shooting the brass cases?
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#8 | ||||||
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It won't hurt the value if you CLEAN them. Heavy crud can be carefully scraped off. A brass bristled 'tooth brush', from your local hardware emporium, can be used vigourously to remove various forms of verdigris. Quite often the brass will remain stained, which is understandable. Good Luck!
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GMC(SW)-USN, Retired 'Earnest Will' 'Desert Shield' 'Desert Storm' 'Southern Watch' |
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#9 | ||||||
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As with any antique that you intend to clean while retaining its original beauty - never use an abrasive of any kind. Soak them in a solution that will eventually dissolve or at least soften the crud. They may need to soak for weeks... then use a soft nylon toothbrush on them while they are still wet.
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"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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#10 | ||||||
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They may have been reloaded at one time with corrosive primers. Very difficult to tell if a case is bad. Older cases often have folded heads not solid like new brass and are much weaker.
Rifles generally have a gas escape path for this situation. Look at the hole left side of a 03 Springfield action. It's to let gas escape with out harming the shooter. Shotguns don't have a good escape path because they operate at much lower pressure . Even so Puncture a primer gas will blow back in the action around the firing pin, whole case head lets go it's likely to come out between the barrels and action standing breech. Not a risk I would take William |
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