Do you think this stock is......stock.

[David Borrowman]

I posted some pics on the introductory page of this GH 20 ga that I've had for several years, but just started shooting. After looking at many other pics of GH's I wondered if it was possible to rub off that much checkering. The stock is pretty loose, and the metal/wood fit is not great. The addition of the Browning butt pad also made me wonder. What do you all think?






Note the gap between the metal and wood.



DOH!






I see some orange flecks on the wood. Could there have been one of those orange butt pads originally?


The splinter is pretty worn too, whith just a touch of checkering remaining.

[Rod N. Gunn]

I think most folks here will agree that yours is not an original stock. The grip cap and shield appear to have come from an original Parker however.

[Harry Collins]

David,

Unscrew the trigger guard bow screw, lift the guard bow out of the stock recess and unscrew it a half turn. Parker stamped the serial number of the gun on the stock in that trigger guard recess.

Harry

[David Borrowman]

That does explain why there is some pitting that makes it looks like there was some tape accross the trigger guard bow at one time. I'll let you all know what I find out.

If I'm going to keep this as a shooter I might as well spend the money on a new stock as opposed to working on this one????

[Ed Blake]

No. That stock can probably be re-inlet resulting in a better fit, and, other details can be resolved as well, such as contour and checkering. Don't spend money on a new stock if you can make this one work.

[Bill Murphy]

I agree with Ed. A good wood person can bring this stock into a better shape and position on the gun for a fraction of what a new stock will cost. He will bring the whole stock slightly forward, allowing the gaps to be filled with the wood of the existing stock and fill the internal voids and screw holes with whatever he chooses to use. It won't be perfect and you shouldn't insist that it be perfect. The alternative is to invest a bunch of money in a restock or sell the gun. The gun is of interest to collectors whether it has wood or not. You will be getting private messages from those people inquiring about your willingness to sell. Lucky you.

[Ray Masciarella]

I have two well used, but very sound, guns that have the forend checkering worn the same. Forends wear first it semms. Ray

[David Borrowman]

Originally Posted by Ray Masciarella

Forends wear first it seems.

That is a good point Ray. I'll post what I find out after checking the s/n on the stock.

Any pointers on screw removal without damaging the screw?

[TARNATION !!!]

David: For all screws, use hollow ground driver tips that fit the entire slot side to side and edge to edge and full depth. That is very important in order to not end up with messed up screw heads. Clean the slot fully of any crud/rust/debris first. Apply minimal torque. If the screw does not turn, use a drop or two of penetratiing oil. Let it work for a while then try minimal torque again. Eventually, you win and have intact screw. Lose your patience and you lose the screw head. In the case of the trigger guard screw head, you are dealing with a wood screw so it should come out readily enough. The trigger guard screw that threads into the floor plate may need a bit of penetrating oil or may turn fairly easily. Good luck
Jack

[Tim Kisieleski]

David, as a hunter, and shooter, NOT a collector, before you have that stock reinleted, ect.... I'd find out what it's dimentions are. If you havent been fitted, I'd do that. If your measurements arent even close to what the gun is, I'd restock. There are resonable stockers out there. No point in spending a dime on stock work that isn't going to work for YOU. Specially as its a non original.

I recently picked up a vh 16 O frame with a rough stock. It will be getting a new stock. the required repairs and possible bend to make it shootable, by ME will make a sizable dent in a stock job.


Tim