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-   -   Tongue in cheek question about working on my Parker (https://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10917)

Chaz Doebler 07-10-2013 08:03 PM

Tongue in cheek question about working on my Parker
 
So Eli Whitney pioneered interchangeable parts in 1801, at what point (if ever) did Parker adapt the practice?

I am working on putting new triggers into a 1912 Trojan, and they don't even close to work as is. A little filing, a little sanding and they are fine, but you would think a trigger would "drop in."

CHAZ

Rick Losey 07-10-2013 08:07 PM

Its called craftsmanship :rotf:

if ya want interchangeable buy an 870 :duck:

Chaz Doebler 07-10-2013 08:23 PM

I had a 1927 LC Smith hammerless field grade with a weak main spring. I also had a spring from a 1905 hammergun. I took the '27 apart, dropped in the spring from the old hammergun, and it was good as new.
CHAZ

greg conomos 07-10-2013 10:31 PM

It's called 'statistical variation'. If you tried the same thing with 5 other LC's the spring might not have fit.

Dean Romig 07-10-2013 11:07 PM

Everything on a Parker Bros. shotgun was machine made but hand fitted and finished.

So... you just hand fitted and finished a set of triggers to your Trojan... just as it should be.

The guys in "that dusty little plant down in Meriden" never complained about it. :smiley7:

Chaz Doebler 07-10-2013 11:52 PM

I just wanted to complain a little. This is one of those projects that has fought me tooth and nail at EVERY turn. It is my own fault, this is the first Parker I ever had apart, and I was probably in over my head, but I am getting there.

I have to admit I got incredibly lucky that I could drop in a new hammer and sear without any fitting. Sear engagement is one thing that I know better than to mess with myself.

I have another hour or so worth of fitting into it, and I have it functioning. I had everything together just one turn loose and it wouldn't function. Tightened up all the screws and it runs like a champ. I still have to go one quarter of a turn on the big screw under the top lever for it to be timed, so I will have to pull it apart and see what is giving me clearance issues.

I also need to make a trigger spring as they appear to be made of unobtainium.

CHAZ

Brian Dudley 07-11-2013 08:27 AM

If you have to, put your tang screw in a drill press and file it under the head while spinning. This will allow the screw to be timed. Just go a little at a time until it is right. Given that your gun has been restocked, that is most likely what is causing the screw to not time as it was originally. You don't want to muscle it into place since that is what will cause a messed up screw slot.

If you cannot find a trigger spring or make one right away, don't sweat it. The gun will function without it.

Dean Romig 07-11-2013 10:05 AM

I agree with Brian. Reducing the distance between the upper frame tang and the trigger plate tang will almost always interfere with sear engagement as well as safety function.

Chaz Doebler 07-11-2013 08:10 PM

Back together, functional, and test fired.

For now the top lever screw needs to go one quarter turn farther. I am going to leave it as is until I feel like working the screw a little to line it up.

In the "this gun hates me" department the last thing I did of course was put on the trigger bow, which bound up the rear trigger. I "clearanced" the rear trigger a bit and all is well.

I only have a trigger return spring on the front trigger as the one I made was WAY too wide to fit two springs between the triggers. I used flat spring material and I just can't get it thin enough. I will find some appropriate wire and make one out of that eventually.

I cut the stock to put on the plate today and found that the butt had a whole lot of pitch. I am thinking that straightening that out as well as lowering the comb will tame what I thought was quite a bit of recoil for such a heavy gun, with a fat butt.

As soon as I get a few coats of oil on the old girl I will post some pictures. She sure is pretty, I hope she is worth the trouble.

CHAZ

Brian Dudley 07-11-2013 08:36 PM

Glad to hear that all is working well!

Chaz Doebler 07-12-2013 12:58 PM

So for those of you scoring at home;
Lowered the comb, shortened the stock (fixed pitch)
Installed butt plate
Replaced hammers, sears and triggers

"Percy"
http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...ebyc/004-7.jpg

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/a...ebyc/003-4.jpg

It still needs a few more coats of oil as there are some dull spots. I could probably reblue the barrels yet, but it is so much easier not to, rust boil, rust boil, rust boil....

edgarspencer 07-12-2013 02:29 PM

Nicest piece of wood I've seen on a Trojan yet. Barrels look fine from what I can see.

charlie cleveland 07-12-2013 07:44 PM

fine lookin gun for a home spun gun dont figure you would have no trouble finding work..this is truly nice work....charlie

Chaz Doebler 07-12-2013 10:32 PM

I can't take too much credit for this one as it was restocked when I got it. I just adjusted it to fit me (the comb was really high), and replaced some internals to make it work again. Special thanks to Mr. Dudley for supplying all the parts I needed.

I just weighed it tonight with the stock work done and it is 8 pounds 1 ounce and change. With 30 inch barrels choked imp cyl/mod it should be great for sporting clays. I will find out tomorrow.

CHAZ


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