Dean, a new 1910 bolt plate is as much a band aid as a shim. I see no problem with a shim in certain areas of a gun where steel has worn. A soldered in new pre 1910 flat bolt plate is no more than a shim. I, personally, do not want a chunk sawed out of my lug and a new piece of steel dovetailed in. Maybe if I could have a video of DT doing the job, start to finish, but that isn't going to happen.

Dean, I was just thinking that one would have to get that "bad feeling" sawing a chunk from the lug of set of High end barrels...

I disagree. The 1910 patented replaceable bolt plate with "shoulders" was a running design modification and was replaced in conjunction with a new corresponding bolt. It was an upgrade, not a band-aid, on older guns evidenced by the fact that Parker Bros. would do this service at no charge to the customer when earlier guns were returned to Meriden for service or other repairs.

I was referring to a gun with an original 1910 bolt plate that requires a larger 1910 bolt plate to become tight again. It is "adding metal", just like soldering a very thin shim into place. Sawing a piece out of the barrel lug to insert a dovetailed piece is not something I would ever do.

I wouldn't either. Russ Bickell refit two sets of barrels for me... the right way.