Carding, and boiling at the end

[Bill Graham]

I've been looking at "Tom Flanigan's Damascus Restoration Tutorial" which I understand to be an adaptation of Dr. Gaddy's method, and it mentions carding with wet baking soda.

Also, the document directs the audience to drill a second weep hole in the rib. Do you folks do this, and how far from the muzzle is recommended?

[J. A. EARLY]

Bill,

I spoke with Mr. Dale Edmonds at length about the process he uses. He told me that Dr. Gaddy's instructions left a lot of unanswered questions, and he learned it by trial and error, and even today he has different results depending upon the metal in the barrels. Of course he is finishing up his work and is retiring, and he found no one to apprentice under him.

I tried it and gave up. I can do rust bluing with no problem but Damascus was too much of a match for me. I can tell you that Mr. Edmonds does not drill a hole or additional hole in the under rib behind the forearm on the barrels he has done for me. I anxiously await my last set for a DH that he is doing.

Early Parkers don't have a weep hole to start with. But if when the barrels go in the boiling tank and you see bubbles coming from the ribs, then water is going to get in there. Thus I am sure the recommendation for the weep hole(s).

[B. Dudley]

Originally Posted by Bill Graham

I've been looking at "Tom Flanigan's Damascus Restoration Tutorial" which I understand to be an adaptation of Dr. Gaddy's method, and it mentions carding with wet baking soda.

Also, Dr. Gaddy's document directs the audience to drill a second weep hole in the rib. Do you folks do this, and how far from the muzzle is recommended?

Baking soda would be a neutralizer. Not for carding.

Do NOT drill weep holes. You are altering the barrels from their original state and they cause more problems than they prevent.



Have you actually used steam in regular rust bluing with good results? I tried it and found it very difficult to avoid spotting and getting a good outcome. If you have not used it before, i recommend a trial run to see if you can make it work for you.

[Dean Romig]

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

Do NOT drill weep holes. You are altering the barrels from their original state and they cause more problems than they prevent.

I couldn't agree more with this statement.





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[Bill Graham]

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

Baking soda would be a neutralizer. Not for carding.

Flanigan cites using it to neutralize, and to use as a slurry for light fingertip carding.

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

Do NOT drill weep holes. You are altering the barrels from their original state and they cause more problems than they prevent.

Understood. I ask here to validate what is said elsewhere.

Originally Posted by Brian Dudley

Have you actually used steam in regular rust bluing with good results? I tried it and found it very difficult to avoid spotting and getting a good outcome. If you have not used it before, i recommend a trial run to see if you can make it work for you.

Yes, repeatedly. You were kind enough to give one a thumbs-up comment on one I did last year. It's gone very well thus far. A couple of keys is to hang the barrels muzzle up, and for the boil to be intense. I'm sure I'd be happy with boiling as well; I simply don't have the equipment or space. I had the PVC components, canning pot, and camp stove on hand.

[Tom Flanigan]

Originally Posted by Bill Graham

I've been looking at "Tom Flanigan's Damascus Restoration Tutorial" which I understand to be an adaptation of Dr. Gaddy's method, and it mentions carding with wet baking soda.

Also, the document directs the audience to drill a second weep hole in the rib. Do you folks do this, and how far from the muzzle is recommended?

Just saw this Bill. You are mistaken. I have never drilled a weep hole or recommended it. I should never be done, ever, when using the rust blue methods for fluid or damascus finishing.

It may be necessary for some types of hot bluing but I am totally unfamiliar with those methods and have never used them.

To clarify, I card with wet baking soda to lightly card after the etchant dip. The baking soda stops further action of the etchant and removes the color loosened by the etchant. It is not used for carding the barrels after rusting.

I am back restoring my own damascus barrels. I have modified my former approach to get more consistency. Getting consistent results takes a lot of trial and error. Most develop their own tweaks on the overall process. The results of my new tweaks is very encouraging.