Carding, and boiling at the end

[Bill Graham]

How goes it, Harry? I'm still plugging away with the practice. Messing with a Lefever barrel now. I don't have an issue with the depth of black oxide in the crolle, it's get the steel white enough and regulating what how much is etched off that are my struggles.

I know how other fellows do it, and have followed suit in a very disciplined manner, but the steel continues to darken more than expected and confuses the etching times.

[Bill Graham]

Finally had some good success. Still no logwood, and there were more iterations than I ultimately would like, but it feels good for it to be going better. This set was finished last week, and is from a Lefever G grade from 1894.

[Dean Romig]

A very nice job! Congratulations.






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[OH Osthaus]

Agreed

Excellent work

[Jim DiSpagno]

Great job.

[Bill Graham]

Hi Tom. I was referring to both documents; yours and Dr. Gaddy’s. In one of Gaddy’s was mentioned a second weep hole.

I’m sure all of us interested in the process the process would value hearing whatever tweaks you’re willing to share.

This is my last set. No logwood involved.

[Tom Flanigan]

Absolutely beautiful Bill. You have obviously developed your own tweaks. I have more experimenting to do before I publish my new twists and turns. When I get consistent results on all barrels, I'll share my thoughts.

Some barrels are harder than others. When I can do any barrel the same way and get good consistent results, I'll post my tweaks.

[Bill Graham]

Originally Posted by Tom Flanigan

Some barrels are harder than others. When I can do any barrel the same way and get good consistent results, I'll post my tweaks.

Thanks Tom. No kidding. The 4-iron was misery. The layers are so thin. This Washington was one of the easier ones thus far because the pattern edges are more distinct.

I like your wisdom around success with any barrel. I still consider my successes to have been educational accidents. Either way, it’s interesting, fulfilling, and frustrating.

[Tom Flanigan]

I have never used shellac but I imagine it would work. I use urethane for damascus because you typically have to do many more iterations of rust, card, etch and boil. But you might be onto something with shellac. I'll try it and If it stays intact, I'll switch. It certainly would be a lot easier to remove from the bores.

[Dean Romig]

Why not just use rubber stoppers like so many others do?





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