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#13 | |||||||
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Thanks, Steven |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Steven Gray For Your Post: |
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#14 | ||||||
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Steven, you might try removing the wood from the fore end then soaking the mechanism with Kroil. Let it sit overnight then blow it out and LIGHTLY lube it, blow again gently. Make sure no "drippy or runny" oil remains before reassembly. I have done this with one of mine that had very sluggish semi-functioning ejectors. I was cured! I have had very good success with Kroil over the years on "sticky" mechanisms. Keep it off the wood.
As far as disassembling the ejectors, it is only for the brave! Most gunsmiths run for the hills when you say "Parker ejector issues". |
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#16 | ||||||
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Take your pick from sewing machine oil to any good name brand gun oil. LIGHTLY is the key word here. Excess oil just gathers dirt and becomes a powerful adhesive. It will also run out and damage/soak your wood. Lots of folks leave too much oil in gun mechanisms and cause themselves more misery. Oil soaked wood is no fun.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Keith Doty For Your Post: |
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#19 | ||||||
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Im pretty sure its jim kellys old shop I dont know if the nephew is there but I heard the son in law took it over but when I said parker ejectors he didn't say no.
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#20 | ||||||
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Gun scrubber is great stuff for blasting crud out of an assembled mechanism before oiling anything. It is a high pressure solvent in a can.
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B. Dudley |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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