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Dean Romig
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Posted: Tue May 26th, 2009 03:29 am |
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Richard Flanders wrote: Someone on the forum knows who does that kind of stuff; I can't remember who it is.
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Trevor Shurtz
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Posted: Fri Jun 5th, 2009 10:47 pm |
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| Sorry for the delay. Here is a picture of the screw in question and the hook I was speaking of. Oh, and it is a 1 1/2 size frame, not a 1. Attached Image (viewed 97 times):
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Trevor Shurtz
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Posted: Fri Jun 5th, 2009 10:49 pm |
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| what is the chance that i can remove the lug with the screw on the bottom of it? is this all that is holding it on? This would make things easier for me to work on it. The screw in question this time is the small one on the bottom of the barrel lugs in the picture right in front of the rear lug. Attached Image (viewed 95 times):
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Richard Flanders
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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2009 01:42 am |
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That hook looks like someone may have peened it to try to tighten up the barrels on face. That hook screw looks pretty rough but it should come out. They generally aren't in that tight. The threads aren't deeply cut and won't tolerate being put in too tight; they'll just strip. Some of the guys have talked of putting a bit in a drill press, mounting the piece to be worked on under the chuck and holding the bit into the screw slot tightly by pulling the chuck down and turning it by hand. You can get more downward pressure that way and are less likely to strip the screw slot out even worse. This looks like a candidate for that method to me.
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Trevor Shurtz
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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2009 03:07 am |
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| Sounds like an interesting idea. I may have to give that a shot. So does anyone know if I can remove the barrel lug or whatever you call it under the barrels by removing that one screw? This would allow me to remove the other screw easier, but I don't want to try to remove the small screw if it's not going to do me any good. I would like to be able to remove the lug and soak the screw in penetrating oil.
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2009 03:26 am |
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The screw head in the bottom of the barrel lug only holds in the extractor. There is a flat area milled into the extractor rod and the screw is just a set screw. If you tighten it down you won't be able to move the extractor rod. If you loosen it up enough you can pull the extractor out. The lug itself can only be removed by heating enough to melt the solder...then you have a real job soldering it all back together.
Kurt
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Richard Flanders
PGCA Member
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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2009 03:46 am |
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Kurt is right. That screw is just a retaining screw for the extractor. You should definitely remove it and clean the extractor channel with a bronze .22 brush and clean up the extractor rod so it moves smoothly. Sometimes they're bent and/or grooved and thus sticky and need a bit of cleaning up with a fine file or emery paper then fine steel wool. The slot on that screw looks pretty clean so it should come out easily enough. Again, that screw is generally not tight at all. You might have to clean the screw slot with a toothpick or small watch screwdriver and solvent so your driver seats all the way down.
Last edited on Sat Jun 6th, 2009 03:48 am by Richard Flanders
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Trevor Shurtz
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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2009 05:02 am |
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| Well the screw is definitely in there tight. The main problem is that the slot is really shallow.
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Richard Flanders
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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2009 06:04 am |
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The slot on that screw is generally not real shallow. I assume you've cleaned it out? Use a slightly dulled sewing needle if the gunk in the slot is really hard to where a toothpick won't dig it out. Maybe try the drill press technique on it. Put some good penetrating oil on it and let it sit. Whatever you do, take your time and be patient. That screw will come out.
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Trevor Shurtz
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Posted: Sat Jun 6th, 2009 05:29 pm |
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| Alright, thanks.
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