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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 08:15 pm |
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Gents: Thanks for the info. I'll try the acraglass. I do have a reproduction DHBP and it sits in the workshop. Maybe I'm a nutcase, but every time I think of putting it on the family gun (why I bought it) I say no to myself. With this gun and it's starting condition and now with the 603 on the butt plate, I'm again saying no. I'll gain a bit of pleasure in my pursuit of happiness by fiddling with the original to see where I get to. I am no longer pressed for time on anything in life (other than maybe life itself) so I'll keep plugging away.
Good news on another front though. 104355 is finding its way from NY to MT. All bureaucracies have been satisfied with whatever paper they needed. Will meet my Exporting FFL at the border one day to bring it home. From the pics and description, I think I will have a good condition VH from the get go. All I should have to do is resist taking it apart, now I have the right tools. Maybe it will need a little freshening up on the inside 
Cheers,
Jack
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Thomas Schiffer
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| Joined: | Tue Mar 10th, 2009 |
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| Posts: | 8 |
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Posted: Wed Jun 10th, 2009 10:50 pm |
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Jack: I have effected a fine repair of a Colt Single Action grip which I assume is the same material. I used clear epoxy which may be the same as Accraglass. Parker Ser No. 30306 arrived today and I will be into a project like yours only mine is not as rusty...no screws were reluctant. I will be posting under the original query. My (steel) buttplate has a ghost of the correct ser no on the back (pencil?)
ts
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Dave Noreen
PGCA Member
| Joined: | Mon Jan 10th, 2005 |
| Location: | Washington USA |
| Posts: | 463 |
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Posted: Fri Jun 12th, 2009 11:50 pm |
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| New Parker Bros. top lever springs are also available from Galazan.
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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 01:17 am |
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Dave: Thanks for the tip. Cheers, Jack
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Jim Williams
BBS Member
| Joined: | Sun Feb 27th, 2005 |
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| Posts: | 554 |
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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 07:00 am |
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Jack,
I restored about 1/2 in. of a missing toe from a DHBP by making a mold out of wood. I cut an oversized outline of the missing portion of the toe into a piece of plywood slightly thicker than the buttplate. I drilled several holes into the broken edge of the buttplate to allow the acraglass to flow into them and get a good bite on the buttplate. I mixed up acraglass with the black dye and fiberglass flock, then worked it into the depths of the holes drilled in the buttplate. Then I laid everything out on waxed paper, lined up the buttplate with the toe mold, and poured in the black-dyed acraglass until it filled the void. After setting, I carefully cut the wooden mold away, installed the buttplate on the gun, and carefully sanded the oversized toe outline back to match the stock toe outline. After that I scribed the border line and checkering lines to match up with the remaining original portion. The result was an invisible repair, and the owner was thrilled with it (so was I).
Jim
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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 02:42 pm |
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Sounds like fun. I had been thinking about drilling holes along the edge and was thinking of inserting metal pins so that the acraglass would have a means to hold all together - thinking along the lines of cement work and rebar pins (on a tiny scale). Lots of time to still think about and receive ideas. what did you use to cut the lines in the finished product? I had wondered about bothering, since the surface is so worn it will almost need to be fully re-cut. Anyway, still thinking. Thanks for the info.
Cheers,
Jack
Last edited on Sat Jun 13th, 2009 05:21 pm by Jack Cronkhite
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 05:32 pm |
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Today was the day the swivel finally came loose. I used a small carving chisel to get all around the edges, then heated the chisel tip red hot and kept tapping it in behind the swivel base. Then a wire in vice grips also heated red hot and pushed in behind. Eventually I had a bit of a clearance. With that, I began tapping a wedge screw driver behind, alternating with the hot chisel/wire combo. Eventually, the wedge effect broke it loose. All in all it was 3 days, off and on, to remove it. I don't think I scratched the barrels or rib. We'll see once all the solder is gone from the barrels.
Many times during the process, it was very tempting to just hit it with the torch.
Cheers, Jack
 
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Tom Leshinsky
PGCA Member
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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 09:01 pm |
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| You could have wired it up and used a propane torch to get it loose and still can to get the solder off. You also can make a mold out of modeling clay and use another butt plate to mold the missing piece that way you have less wook with the checkering. Silicone rubber mold making stuff also works, you can get it in a jewelry supply store.
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David Purnell
PGCA Member
| Joined: | Sat Oct 29th, 2005 |
| Location: | Albany, Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 470 |
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Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 10:26 pm |
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Jack, you done good on the swivel removal.
Dave
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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 12:55 am |
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Thanks Dave.
Tom: Hadn't thought of making a silicone mold but that sounds like a fine idea. I was leery of the torch for removal. I started with indirect heat on the swivel but before the solder started to melt, the barrels were too hot to touch with a bare hand so I quit. I'm not sure how much heat the rib can take before separation occurs. What is the conventional wisdom on that?
Started on the wood in the past couple days. A local gunsmith said some folks have had good luck with the furniture stripper in the picture. It seems to work
The wood is not effected at all Just removes the finish and the wood is like it started out - except for the major dents and scratches. In the past I would have sanded but this stuff makes that seem a real chore. It is taking longer on the oil/mud soaked areas but it is coming. The forend is an oil challenge. Gasoline????
 
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 01:07 am |
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Thought it would be interesting to show the difference in barrel color. So far just the penetrating oil and rags and cedar shims and 0000 steel wool. Still has a fair bit of "varnish" rust spots. Any hints for that stuff???
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 01:42 am |
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Ever have one of those days? A lifetime of junk here and there and you can remember exactly where some little doodad that you saved a decade ago can be located in case you ever found a use for it. Skip ahead the whole decade, still know where the doodad is but start dismantling some guns and miscellaneous other junk. Now I did save the little zip-loc bags about 4 or 5 years ago, not knowing they would become home to some Parker parts. I dismantled in the basement and started hanging bags onto the coat hanger. I then decided there would be way too many for that, so moved the operation to the garage. Fast forward a couple weeks. Opening bags and removing parts and wiping down for another soak (haven't found the full strength Gunk yet) Then realize you can't find a tiny screw and spring. Clean up the entire garage/basement work area. Still can't find it. Starting to get concerned the outta control pup may have snagged a bag and buried it somewhere. Retrace your steps over and over. Drag out the magnetic broom and go over everywhere - find some strange things but not what you're looking for. Go to the beer fridge (basement) to cool off and just happen to glance up. Still hanging in the bag off the coat hanger. How many times in the past several days have I been right under the darn things while I was feverishly looking on the table and bench. By the way, the double gun in parts on the table is not a Parker - a family Jannsen & Sons Belgian hammer in not much better shape than 108603. That rooster gracing the basement wall is my first from 1966 taken with a Savage 755A autoloader. Taxidermy by my Dad. But I digress. Short term memory seems not a strong point these days and my dear wife takes pleasure in pointing out that I can remember every little bush somewhere on the prairie where I got this rooster or that sharptail or whatever. (She's right on that). Anyway, panic mode is over. Moral of the story? When all else has failed - get a cold beer.
Cheers,
Jack
 
 
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Tom Leshinsky
PGCA Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 02:36 am |
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Jack, if you did use heat on the bbls you have to use wire loops every 4" or so and put weges under the loops on the top and botom ribs so they don't come apart. You have to have the weges very firm.
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Richard Flanders
PGCA Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 04:28 am |
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If the ribs are soldered with silver solder, I think it has a melting point of somewhere between 900 and 1000 deg F. Regular 50/50 will let loose well below that. You did good at any rate. How about using Flitz on the rust?
Last edited on Sun Jun 14th, 2009 04:29 am by Richard Flanders
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Jack Cronkhite
Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 06:11 am |
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Richard: Never heard of Flitz. Had a look at their website. Would you suggest the liquid, the paste or the spray calcium/lime/rust remover? Jack
____________________
Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Richard Flanders
PGCA Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 01:52 pm |
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I've only got a tube of the cream. Lots of folks on this forum have used it so they should chime in with advice. I've heard lots of good input from some of them on it's use on guns.
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tom tutwilerjr
Member
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Posted: Sun Jun 14th, 2009 02:40 pm |
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Might try Wenol, Metal Polish. German made and they use it on Rolex watches etc. Comes in a tube and it will indeed remove light rust without impacting the metal. Had a gunsmith turn me on to it. I think most places that sell high end watches have it. Big tube will run you about $15.00 US and will last for years. I have indeed used it on a parker I sold and it did a wonderful job of cleaning up oxidation. Wouldn't use it on case coloring as just like Flitz, your case coloring will be removed.
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