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Jack Cronkhite Member

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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 04:41 pm |
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Wayne: Another picture hint. Use a plain white background. I love John Deere machinery but the image of the hammers gets lost in the background. The most important is "focus". If automatic focus, keep a steady hand or use a tripod if you have. Natural light will work better than on-camera flash to avoid blown highlights.
Enough on the pictures. Nice looking hammer gun.
Cheers,
Jack
____________________ Hunt ethically. Eat heartily.
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Tom Bria PGCA Member
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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 07:29 pm |
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Never use a white background for gun pics. The white background fools the camera's meter into thinking there is more light available than there really is, and the subject (i.e., the gun) comes out too dark. Use an 82% gray card (available from camera shops) to set your meter, or just keep it simple and use a background of a single color of medium darkness, like a billiard table green (or equivalent). The actual color of the background does not make any difference to the meter, which only cares about the percentage of incident light reflected by that background. The meters are usually calibrated to give proper exposure with 18-20% reflected light. See the link below for an approximation of what 18% looks like on a gray card.
http://www.acecam.com/magazine/gray-card.html
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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 07:36 pm |
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Thanks for the nice comments about the shotgun. If I knew of a reputable appraiser within 300 miles, my father could then set a fair market value for it.
Wayne
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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 08:22 pm |
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Brian Dillard wrote: Wayne,
Good looking gun, some chips on the butt stock and so on but over all a nice Parker. If you have time take the gun barrels off and shoot a picture of the reciever where the barrels would sit, there are some numbers there that will give you more information about your gun. Also close up (stand back and use the zoom) of any engravings and so on would be great.
Brian
Brian,
There are no engravings just a "plain Jane"
Wayne
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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 08:30 pm |
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PAT APR 11 1876
66 SLR 31872
47384
PAT Mar 16 1875
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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 08:31 pm |
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47384 Attached Image (viewed 285 times):

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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 08:35 pm |
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PATD JUNE 26 1878
PATD APR 11 1876
0
T C 31
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Destry Hoffard PGCA Member

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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 09:29 pm |
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I wish I could make a bet on how many PM's he's already gotten on this one.
DLH
____________________ The member formerly known as Market Hunter
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Dave Suponski PGCA Member
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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 11:17 pm |
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At least 10
____________________ Dave....
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Travis Sims PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 12:54 am |
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make it 11 now
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Dave Suponski PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 01:03 am |
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____________________ Dave....
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Dean Romig PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 02:31 am |
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Is it me or does the left lock plate look like it is not seated properly?
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member

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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 02:57 am |
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I noticed that also Dean. It's not seated deep enough towards the front.
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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 03:51 am |
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Dean Romig wrote: Is it me or does the left lock plate look like it is not seated properly?
To what picture are you referring?
Wayne
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Dean Romig PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 09:57 am |
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Good morning Wayne. Go back to page 1 of this thread and see the first and second pictures posted. There appears to be a space between the front of the lock plate and the frame (body of the action) and at the sweeping up of the lock plate just in front of the hammer and again the appearance of a space between the wood of the stock at the lower edge of the frame.
It should look more like this
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Harry Collins PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 11:27 am |
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I noticed it as well. There is a lip on the front of the lock plate that needs to be inserted into the frame first. I did not want to mention it as I was afraid that Wayne would try to correct it. If not done correctly, a srcew could get buggered and a trigger bent. It does not detract from value just a matter of a few minutes work for someone that knows these shotguns. I would love to have this Parker hit my shoulder and down birds.
Harry
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Richard Flanders PGCA Member

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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 03:51 pm |
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If you look at that picture you'll see that the stock is not tight to the receiver on the bottom edge and the lock plate is not far enough forward in the receiver for it's entire length. The right lock plate is back also, as is the stock on the right side and, it looks like, the top tang has a gap at the very back end. Can't see the rear of the bottom tang. Seems the entire stock has to come forward a bit. There has to be some misfit in the tang and lock plate cross screws for that to happen. There's generally little if any 'slop' in the fit of any of those screws through the wood and the stock is tight to the receiver as a result. Seems that both the top-bottom tang screw and the cross screw holes would have to be wallowed out a bit for that to happen. Nothing that can't be fixed of course...
Last edited on Wed Apr 8th, 2009 03:56 pm by Richard Flanders
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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 06:25 pm |
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Harry Collins wrote: I noticed it as well. There is a lip on the front of the lock plate that needs to be inserted into the frame first. I did not want to mention it as I was afraid that Wayne would try to correct it. If not done correctly, a srcew could get buggered and a trigger bent. It does not detract from value just a matter of a few minutes work for someone that knows these shotguns. I would love to have this Parker hit my shoulder and down birds.
Harry
I'm not a gunsmith so no need to worry about me trying to fix any thing.
Wayne
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Wayne Jessen Member
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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 07:49 pm |
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Still looking for a reputable place in Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, or Minnesota to take the shotgun for an appraisal. Any ideas?
Wayne
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Bruce Day PGCA Member

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Posted: Wed Apr 8th, 2009 07:55 pm |
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http://www.pugsguns.com
____________________ Bruce Day
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