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Case Colors Removal
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Russ Jackson
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 02:19 pm

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 Good Morning Gentlemen, I am wondering if there is a way to remove or calm down the Cynide case colors we see being done so much these days ? Is it possible to remove the "Tiger Striping" and still keep some of the nicer hues, I am going to be out for a while ,so I won't be able to respond back but anyone with any experience of ,or knowledge on this would be helpful !  Thank You ;   Russ

Bruce Day
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 02:47 pm

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A light touch with Flitz will tone them down nicely.

 

David: http://www.flitz.com.   I have used it on guns of others to subdue the tiger. I've not owned a gun that has been re cased colored, but it works.  Like any metal polish, a light touch is needed or else you start polishing out engraving. But a re case colored gun likely has engraving degraded anyway.   

Last edited on Tue Mar 31st, 2009 03:34 pm by Bruce Day



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David Dwyer
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 03:09 pm

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Bruce

What is Flitz?

Russ Jackson
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 03:34 pm

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Bruce; Thank you for the info. ,I didn't know what Flitz was either so I Googled it up, should I get the metal polish or exactly which of the Flitz products tame the coloring down ?

Bruce Day
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 03:43 pm

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Flitz polish. Comes either liquid or paste. I've tried both, some prefer the paste, I like the liquid.

I like the stuff. When I get a new gun, I use it to break the oxidation on barrels and the stock finish . It will take out the small scratches. Works on any kind of metal. But its a mild abrasive and needs a light touch with a flannel rag or old tee shirt.  

Some might have good results with 000 steel wool and oil, but I prefer  Flitz.

Last edited on Tue Mar 31st, 2009 03:44 pm by Bruce Day



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Larry Frey
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 04:29 pm

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Russ, a fellow at our club would sit at night watching tv all the while rubbing the frame of a cyanide gun with a piece of leather with a couple of drops of oil on it. He would do this until he got just the look he wanted. A slower process than flitz but slower is sometimes better.

Russ Jackson
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 04:44 pm

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Bruce and Larry; Thank you both for the info and the good advice ! I am going to look for some Flitz and first I will try the oil and leather, slow and easy no matter what the product or the application usually is the best way to go. Regards ;   Russ

Tom Bria
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 05:30 pm

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Flitz is usually available at better bicycle shops.  The racers use it to keep their Campagnolo shining.

David Purnell
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 07:12 pm

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Russ,

     I tried the leather and oil once, but must be lacking in patience.  Flitz works best for me, its faster, but use a light touch.  It can go to bare metal with heavy rubbing.

I have a pic at home of a cyanide gun I toned down.  I'll try to remember to post it later tonight.

                                                              Dave

Wayne Sorce
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 07:42 pm

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Gentlemen, FYI: Flitz polish advertisements claim to have no abrasive ingredients where as Simichrome polish does. Both are excelent polishes but I wouldn't recommend Simichrome on Guns. Perhaps that is why Flitz is recommended for cleaning blued barrels. It is a mystery to me how a polish can work without abrasives of some type.

Dave Fuller
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 11:44 pm

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Here are some before and after pic.s of a Flitz treatment I did at the suggestion of Mr Day. I tried to go easy and I may yet do a little more. Its a good product.

Before:

Attached Image (viewed 458 times):

IMG_6971_3.jpg

Last edited on Tue Mar 31st, 2009 11:46 pm by Dave Fuller

Dave Fuller
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 Posted: Tue Mar 31st, 2009 11:45 pm

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After:

Attached Image (viewed 462 times):

IMG_7329.jpg

Steve Huffman
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 Posted: Wed Apr 1st, 2009 01:29 am

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I have a few questions How many years of case do we polish off with flitz ? Why not let them go away from natural use and time? I feel that you will go through the same project time and time again. Unless your not going to use the gun like we all know that not the proper thing to do. Just my thought.

Dave Fuller
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 Posted: Wed Apr 1st, 2009 03:07 am

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You make a really good point Steve. In my case, its a number of things... gaudy chemical colors just bug me, short seasons don't let me use it enough to wear them off, other guns to shoot, I'm gettin too old to ever wear them off, gun club closed for environmental assessment, hard to find 10ga no-tox ammo, uncontrollable urge to tinker, etc. I do prefer your solution, however.

Bruce Day
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 Posted: Wed Apr 1st, 2009 12:20 pm

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In as much as there are plenty of Parkers around that are 80 years old with plenty of case colors, I'd say maybe 50 to 80 years to wear off the tiger stripes through carrying only. If you have an otherwise nice gun but for the striped cyanide case colors, let me know in maybe 50 years.

By the way, not all cyanide jobs result in the garish stripes. Some cyanide jobs can be done so they are almost indistinguishable from bone charcoal. I don't know the technique.  As Austin Hogan has pointed out many times, the coloring is in a thin, micron thickness surface layer whereas the actual case hardening is many times thicker. The colors can be well worn off and the outside surface of the frame will still be hardened and protected against destructive wear of the softer interior area. I've never heard of a Parker that had wear through the case hardened layer.    

Last edited on Wed Apr 1st, 2009 12:35 pm by Bruce Day



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Russ Jackson
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 Posted: Thu Apr 2nd, 2009 02:16 pm

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Bruce; Thanks again for the info. regarding Flitz, I got on their web site and it said that Ace Hardware stores would carry the product,I stopped by our local Ace store and sure enough they had the liquid Flitz, I thought I would prefer the paste but none available there , I used it this morning and it did a wonderful job calming the cyanide colors, and took care of a couple of years of aggravation !! The gun looks 100 percent nicer !!     Russ

Bruce Day
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 Posted: Thu Apr 2nd, 2009 10:28 pm

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Russ, glad to help. The question comes up every couple years and the recommendation is repeated. Flitz was recommended to me by somebody else and I've passed it on.

I know guns get redone with the tiger stripe colors but being far from the centers of Parkerdom, I've never understood how that came to be thought of as factory original. We find these old factory original guns out here such as the one below, and they don't look like that so I don't know.  I don''t know as much of the history as others, but I joined the PGCA within the first year and had an old beater for over 20 years before that. For years I just ran through boxes of shells of anything that would fit and fire and didn't know much about the gun until the PGCA came along and I got to talk to people who knew something.      

Attached Image (viewed 230 times):

Neb sandhills GHE.jpg

Last edited on Thu Apr 2nd, 2009 10:40 pm by Bruce Day



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Mike Poindexter
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 Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 05:09 am

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Bruce:  Very interesting birds engraved on that GH.  Can't tell from the photo, but certainly appear different from my 1900-1915 G's.  Is it a later model gun(no barrel bolster )?  What's on the left side? Dr. Seuss ducks?  Enquiring minds want to know.

Mike

Dean Romig
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 Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 09:59 am

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It looks like the engraving style of the late Remington era GHEs.

Bruce Day
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 Posted: Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 12:14 pm

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Late G other side as requested. Geese.

There are a lot of guns out here that never had the opportunity to get redone case colors and were pretty much left as is.   

Attached Image (viewed 161 times):

Larry's_G.jpg

Last edited on Fri Apr 3rd, 2009 01:22 pm by Bruce Day



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