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mark scheible
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Posted: Wed Mar 25th, 2009 11:05 pm |
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I have parker hammer serial # 34882 which apparently was manufactured on Sept 3, 1872. It is all original.
Frame size 2,
barrel weight 4,
barrel type twist.
I have slight surface rust on the barrel which I would like to clean up. Is there a perferred way to do this?
thanks
Mark
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Don Kaas
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Posted: Wed Mar 25th, 2009 11:45 pm |
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| Your gun was made in 1882. The date you quote is a patent date. If there is little or no pattern visible, try 0000 steel wool and some Hoppe's #9 solvent.
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Jay Gardner
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 01:11 am |
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| ...and go SLOW. Take your time.
____________________
Weathered corn, an apple left unnoticed on the tree, the crunch of frosted stubble underfoot, wood smoke in the evening - these things remind me of the wild, fall days of boyhood...the best of those days were the Saturday's, afield with my dad.
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 02:12 am |
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Don Kaas wrote: Your gun was made in 1882. The date you quote is a patent date. If there is little or no pattern visible, try 0000 steel wool and some Hoppe's #9 solvent.
If Hoppe's isn't working for you try Kroil...the oil that creeps (and is smells good)..let it set overnight and gently run the steel wool over the barrels the next day. It may take several days of this. Be patient, you don't want silver barrels. I also like to use Gunzilla. It doesn't get advertised much but is made in Michigan and used by the US and Israeli military. It has no petroleum products in its recipe. Mostly plant extracts.
Kurt
Last edited on Thu Mar 26th, 2009 02:14 am by Kurt Densmore
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Harry Collins
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 01:38 pm |
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Kurt,
Every morning I step out the frond door, walk to the wood pile and let go with one of my cap & ball revolvers loaded to the hilt with FFF. Gunzilla had the revolvers clead with just a few swipes of a patch. I love the stuff.
Harry
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Gary Carmichael
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 02:01 pm |
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Guys where do you find gunzilla? Gary
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Austin W Hogan
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 02:03 pm |
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Is Gunzilla Castor oil based?
A word of caution about steel wool and other gentle but flexible abrasives; they conform to the surface and tend to amplify surface height differences. When you can close your eyes and feel the twist or damascus pattern with your fingers, you have gone too far.
I used GE Silicon Products and Mobil I for a lot of unusual applications in Antarctica because they were both absolutely waterless and worked at -100F. Both are great protective coatings. When sugar of lead was outlawed for use in linseed oil, I tried both a silicon oil and Mobil I as fungus resistant stock finishes. It is necessary to add quite a bit of oxidizer, but silicon oil makes a dandy french polish. I added what I thought was enough oxidizer to Mobil I to overcome the anti oxidents that are a part of the mix. It produced a beautiful finish; but it could be removed with cold water.
I have never tried Mobil I as a gun oil because I think it may penetrate the surface finish.
Best, Austin
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 03:02 pm |
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Gary, I get the Gunzilla from a vendor at the local gun shows. You can probably order it online.
Harry, Hell of a way to wake up the neighbors...
Austin, What did you do for a living? Sounds like you have done some interesting things. Not many people have spent time in antarctica. Being a biologist I regret not working/traveling more before settling into a desk job (well, at least 90% of the time). I get out in the field to delineate wetlands, wildlife monitoring, prescribed burns and such.
Kurt
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Richard Flanders
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 10:41 pm |
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Kurt, Austin and I were down there the same year once. I tried to get the camp manager job for the camp on the Beardmore Glacier where he was but a friend got it and I got another in west Antarctica where I had previous experience. I likely saw Austin in the chow hall in McMurdo at some point but didn't know him back then.
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Harry Collins
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 10:50 pm |
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Gunzilla http://www.topgunproducts.com
Kurt,
The farm next door is owned by Johnny Depp and his Mom lives there. I have an uncanny ability to tick off about every one that meets me. Life is good.
Harry
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Dave Suponski
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Posted: Thu Mar 26th, 2009 11:54 pm |
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| Harry,Is that Colt Walker that handsome young man is holding?
____________________
Dave....
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Harry Collins
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Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 01:11 am |
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Dave,
It's a Third Model Dragoon. That young'n is my third grandson at about two (he's now six). I would make them say the name of the pistol before they could hold it. Clay said "KirdGagoon" and I said "Close enough" and handed him the four pound pistol. I just loaded it with 40 gr of FFF black powder and a .454 round ball for the morning shoot. It sure makes the jackasses heehaa and run around the pasture.
Harry
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 02:47 am |
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http://gunzilla.us/ get the big bottle...
Not a nice BP Dragoon but enough to scare the hell out of a left winger...I don't have any socialist neighbors to piss off early in the morning. All rednecks like myself. One even lives in a barn with about 6 different colored shingles and they started a "shoe tree" that is a local tourist attraction....aka "eye sore"...or maybe the other way around....I don't have a donkey in the pasture but one of the neighbors has an Emu that makes some really wierd noises and big omlettes....
Boy, if Johnny D is nearly as crazy as his acting parts he has played his mom must be something else.!!
He wanted a pair of Ruger Bearcats but I think this will do. Single six convertible, with the long bbl. I had to have a saddlemaker make me a holster for it.
Kurt
Last edited on Fri Mar 27th, 2009 12:14 pm by Kurt Densmore
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Fri Mar 27th, 2009 03:14 am |
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| My Single Six Convertible is my favorite handgun. It's the one that is always in the back of the truck during bird season, just for plinking after the hunt. Would love to find one with the long barrel. When I need more, it's the Blackhawk .357, with a spare cylinder soon to be converted to .357/.44 B&D. Ruger makes great revolvers.
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mark scheible
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Posted: Mon Apr 27th, 2009 11:38 pm |
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the Hoppes #9 and 0000 steel wool is working to remove the surface rust. slowly... trying to rub it with the twist.
Does it hurt/help to leave some on a let it soak overnight?
Is there a conditioner for the wood you would recommend?
Thanks
Mark
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 01:25 am |
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Mark, that is what I usually do. Put on a layer of penetrating oil and let it set overnight or a few days before carding off the old loose rust. That is why I like to use Kroil. It really penetrates..
As far as the wood goes. Does the wood have any finish left? If it does then you can put some furniture polish on it but it won't last very long. If the finish is gone or you want to freshen it up you can rub on some Tru oil, linspeed, parker finish from galazan, slacum oil, waterlux or whatever your poison is. I would stay away from polyurethanes. If it is dirty you can clean with murphys oil soap first. If the stock is oil soaked you can completely remove all metal parts and soak in Acetone for a couple of days and then Alcohol for a day or so (look up Wonko on the doublegun site). After a few days of drying you will need to fill in all the pores with a grain filler or spend a lot of time applying oil finish and then taking it down to the wood until the grain is filled. You can also use a french polish finish that was used on lower grade parkers. It consists of shellac and boiled linseed oil rubbed on with a pad. Good luck and remember that a really blemish free stock with a brown rusty set of barrels and action looks out of place. It is nice to keep everything looking similar in wear.
good luck and post up some pics when you get it looking good,
Kurt
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mark scheible
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Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 01:37 am |
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Hi Kurt,
thanks. the rust is not bad so i will see if the #9 will work.
the finish is not bad either. Looks a little dirty and has some scratches so I will try to clean it first and see how it comes out. I will try to do some before and after pictures if I can.
mark
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 01:52 am |
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| Good luck Mark. If you use the murphys oil soap try not to use much water. Use a toothbrush or something of the like and clean out the checking and scratches, the head and such. Wipe the foam off with a towl. It will get pretty brown and it may take a couple of them. If the stock has an oil finish the murpys will remove most of it and it will need to be touched up with a few coats of new oil. Murphys, like all soaps lift oils from a surface. So, it will lift the old gun oil that turns the surface of the wood black and also removes some of the original oil finish. As long as you don't remove the oil from the pores a touch up will work great. The key is to rub on a very light coat of oil and let dry for a day or a few days depending upon humidity. If you put on too much it will take a lot of time for it to dry...the finish will remain tacky. Rub it in with a couple of fingers or the palm of your hand until it warms up and seems to dry to the wood somewhat. Dont fill in the checking with the oil. Use a clean toothbrush to brush it out. You want just enough in the checking to seal up the wood. If you get it really clean you can stain the checking to make it stand out from the rest of the stock. Just a few shades darker than the stock will do.
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 04:04 am |
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Re twist barrel maintenance, I must admit that I have gone over to the dark side. I just acquired my first Brit gun, an 1875-ish W. Lacey (Birmingham) hammer gun with beautiful laminated steel barrels, with Birmingham Definitive Black Powder Proof marks. Finish is all original and the laminated pattern is high contrast black and white, not the brown that one would expect. All I have done to them so far is a light coat of 3-in-1 oil. They don't need much in the way of cleaning, but I would like to protect the finish. Options appear to be:
1. Gun oil
2. Paste wax
3. Tru Oil
4. Tung oil (something like Formby's, with the driers already in it)
5. Sprayed and baked finish, such as Behlen's.
At this point I'm leaning toward the tung oil, but would appreciate the thoughts of those who have lived with lam and twist barrels for a while. Thanks.
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mark scheible
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Posted: Thu Apr 30th, 2009 01:38 am |
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Hi Kurt,
tried to send a picture but the file was too big, even with compression.
1) I want to take the firing mechanism apart to clean. Any cautions?
2) Murphys didn't make much of a difference. Will try furniture polish next.
mark
Last edited on Thu Apr 30th, 2009 01:42 am by mark scheible
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