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Austin W Hogan
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 12:00 am |
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I can't find any problems with clear mineral oil so far; but I haven't waited 100 years.
It appears to enhance the contrast among the twists, and does not contain any anti rust agents that may penetrate and diminish the finish.
I think I remember Doug Turnbull telling me that he permeates new blue with mineral oil.
Best, Austin
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Bruce Day
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 12:01 am |
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Dale uses Bri-Wax.
The Puglisi perfume is EEZOX.
I've been hearing about Brazilian wax but I figure I'll go to the supermarket and ask the check out girl where that might be.
Last edited on Wed Oct 15th, 2008 12:49 pm by Bruce Day
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Dean Romig
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 01:40 am |
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Bruce Day wrote:
"Watch the car doors."
Bruce, car doors are for fly rods - you should know that, I know I do 
John, What a beauty! A retail store ? Sheesh, some guys have all the luck!
That Damascus pattern looks a lot like the pattern of my DHE 28 - very special! Congratulations!
Best, Dean
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Steve Huffman
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 01:52 am |
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| Do you guys use any type of oil after you wax them. I am confused If they are waxed and they get wet do you just let them dry and rewax them. Will the wax work over oil. By the way them there are some nice GUNS Last edited on Wed Oct 15th, 2008 01:53 am by Steve Huffman
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 02:11 am |
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| Anybody have an experience-based recommendation for a wax to use on guns that will be hunted in hot weather? I have tried Johnson's and TreWax paste, and Watco liquid, and they all get very sticky on hot days. Hot days are 100 to 118; anything under 100 in dove/quail season is mild.
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Richard Flanders
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 05:32 am |
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Thanks for the picture compliment John. I make quite an effort to take good pictures and love to share them on the forum and am glad they are appreciated. Unfortunately, I can’t download or view the PGCA presentation on my slow dialup connection but perhaps I’ll get to see it some time. I waxed my GHE bbls tonite. The Armor All paste wax I have does contain an abrasive afterall, but it states that it is so fine that it will not scratch your car. I tested it on two vintage grubby Mitchell spinning reels, scrubbed the wax on good, and the rag came away blackish, so it will abrade finish if you really lay into it. It goes on a gun nicely though and not too heavily or glossy and leaves a nice polish with gentle buffing with a soft cloth.
That is such a gorgeous 20ga John! What good fortune you had in getting it.
Tom: I would think a car wax like the Armor All would not get tacky in the heat....
Last edited on Wed Oct 15th, 2008 05:33 am by Richard Flanders
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Kurt Densmore
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 11:56 am |
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John, that is absolutely beautiful !! You are fortunate to have such a gun. It certainly deserves to set out where all can admire it.
Kurt
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Jay Gardner
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 12:33 pm |
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First of all that is one spectacular little Parker. Not sure what else that can be said other than WOW!
Regarding wax, how about RenWax on the barrels? Also, how do you apply it and keep it from building up in the tight spaces between the base of the rib and barrels? Lastly (at least for now) how often do you wax your barrels (man, that just does not sound right)?
Thanks,
JDG
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Weathered corn, an apple left unnoticed on the tree, the crunch of frosted stubble underfoot, wood smoke in the evening - these things remind me of the wild, fall days of boyhood...the best of those days were the Saturday's, afield with my dad.
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 01:19 pm |
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| Richard, I would shy away from the ArmorAll wax because of the abrasive, no matter how fine it is. There are some paste car waxes out there that claim to be "pure" carnauba, like the old Classic brand, but I'm all out of that stuff. Most car waxes will also leave a white residue in the checkering and the rib matting, unless you spend a lot of time with a tooth brush. For now, I'm back to oil.
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Richard Flanders
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 01:28 pm |
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I would agree Tom. I was surprised to read the fine print on the can and see that there was an abrasive after all and I am going to be seeking a pure paste wax with carnuba. Seems to me that Johnsons paste wax in a can contains no abrasives and is carnuba based.
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 02:20 pm |
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| The Johnson's is great stuff, and I use it on my woodworking machinery tables (table saw, jointer, etc.). Prevents rust on raw iron surfaces, easily refreshed, and no silicone to interfere with finishing operations. Last time I used it on an oil finished gun stock, it got so gooey in the Arizona heat that I had to scrub it down with mineral spirits. Might be OK on a modern poly finish, but on the oil finished stock it got into the pores and then just kept oozing as I handled the gun.
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John Dallas
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 03:41 pm |
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| What about RIG? I sure like the stuff.
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Richard Flanders
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 04:34 pm |
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Concerning gun waxing. I just spoke with Robert, the owner of the IBIZ wax company in Pampano Beach, Florida. They make a wax from carnuba extracted from what he described as fossilized carnuba trees from Germany and Austria. Technically, this can’t be quite correct, but at any rate their wax is 90% carnuba extracted from rock and melts at 182deg F, which is much higher than the melting point of ‘new’ carnuba. Their wax is the only wax allowed to be used at the Hershey Penn. Car museum and is being used at car museums all over the world and for waxing just about everything you can imagine from cars and airplanes to appliances to woodworking tools to tiling to silverware. Robert is an avid cowboy action shooter and uses his wax on all his guns. They make it in Pampano Beach. It was a fascinating conversation and the wax sounds like what many of us are looking for. Seems it would work very well in the Arizona heat Tom. The company number is 800 367-7929 if anyone is wanting verify this information or get more. The wax can be ordered online; just google “ibiz” and you’ll find lots of links. Their site is http://www.ibiz-inc.com. It is also available on http://www.waxdirect.com
If anyone tries this stuff Robert would like to hear your comments on how it worked.
Last edited on Wed Oct 15th, 2008 04:36 pm by Richard Flanders
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 05:38 pm |
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| Richard, thanks for the lead. I'll probably try some. Re the 182 melting point, a few years ago it got so hot during dove season that I had six-packs of Diet Coke exploding inside the shell of my truck. White shell on a white truck. The thermometer in the cab showed an air temp of 180. That was the same day that my oil-finished Browning got all gooey with the wax.
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Bruce Day
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 06:22 pm |
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Yes Tom, but it would have been only 110 in the shade under the tree while waiting for the doves to fly over.......or drop dead in the air from overheating.
I know, its SoCal and the people there make up for the inconvenience of the high temps.
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John Dunkle
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 06:35 pm |
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Yikes!! This thread has turned into an amazing thread with a lot of terrific info! And yesterday - when I first asked about how to protect the barrels, I figured a few would post back with one or two "here is what I use..." and I'd take it from there...
Rather - there is a whole lot of info in it..!
My sincerest thanks to all for sharing your thoughts, comments and info!!
As for all the other "accessories" I should buy for this Parker D 20GA...
You folks sure know how to push a fellow member down that "slippery slope" pretty quickly..!!  My thanks for that, too (errr - "I think???" )
Best to you!
John
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 06:40 pm |
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| Bruce, that day was in Ripley, a few miles south of Blythe and north of Palo Verde. No trees there. It was all walk-em-up hunting in the brush around an abandoned feed lot. I don't keep Cokes in the back of the truck any more, unless they are in an ice chest.
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Austin W Hogan
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 06:59 pm |
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Call up Collinite Insulator Wax Utica NY on Google. The paste form lastsyears outdoors preventing ceramic insulators from arcing over. They also make a paste for car finishes.
The paste is nearly pure carnauba
Like all good waxes, it is difficult to remove
Best, Austin
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Bruce Day
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 07:12 pm |
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John, what you really need is a Marvin Huey french fitted case. Its such a nice gun, it deserves the best. Then you'll need a genuine ebony cleaning rod. Don't even think about using one of those bore snakes on it.
A Huey case will be so closely fitted to the gun that you can feel the air escape as you slide the barrels or stock into its recess.
And then there is a source for snap caps made from lengths of discarded damascus barrels. CH and I have sets, but you need them too. A damascus gun will require damascus snap caps. You wouldn't put Firestone M&S tires on one of your 911's would you?
Now how else can I help?
Attached Image (viewed 124 times):
 Last edited on Wed Oct 15th, 2008 07:35 pm by Bruce Day
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Wed Oct 15th, 2008 07:16 pm |
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| I think Galazan has gold plated snap caps that would look good in your new case.
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