Drew's Formby's Suggestion

[Bruce Day]

Doc Drew suggested using Formby's Tung Oil Finish on worn damascus barrels, I have a barrel set that is somewhat worn, but not too worn so I tried his suggestion. I think it improved the iron/steel contrast. Judge for yourself.

[Dave Suponski]

Bruce,Where did you obtain said Formby's

[Bruce Day]

Lowes.

[Dave Suponski]

OK.. Thank You

[Dean Romig]

How much $ ?

[Dean Romig]

Which ones are 'before' and which ones are 'after'?

[Bruce Day]

$8.32 including tax.

Before:

[Drew Hause]

Thank you Bruce. I added a 'before' and 'after' here http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfg2hmx7_192fcpp4khn

[John Mazza]

Bruce - how did you degrease the barrels prior to the oil application ?

Did you take measures to keep the coating off of the breech ends of the barrels, underside (where the barrels rest on the receiver), or any other "critical" surface ?

...or did you just wipe it on thin & not worry ?


(Can you tell I worry too much ?!?)

[Bruce Day]

Denatured alcohol.

No.

Yes.

Yes.

[Dean Romig]

I've always wondered what the "Man of Few Words" looked like . . . now I know and he wears a white Western hat too :duck:

[allen braun]

Mr. Day I went to the hareware store today and they have both high or low shean! Sorry for the question.

[Bruce Day]

I used high sheen.

[Pete Lester]

I thought I would reopen this four year old post because the application of Tung Oil on composite barrels has not been discussed in a while.

Questions; how has/does it hold up. How often does it need to be reapplied i.e how durable is it? Does it actually change the color shades of the metal even after it is removed. If you don't like it or want to reapply it how do you remove it?

In my experience when waterfowling for long periods of time in the rain and snow all gun oils and greases eventually fail. Composite barrels seem to be more prone to rusting in such weather, even when recently refinished. I am guessing it's the iron that causes that. Will tung oil hold up better?

How many of you use Tung oil on your barrels?

[Frank Cronin]

Pete, I have a coat on the big 10 I put on a few years ago. As you know, it's seen the elements, wet gloves, etc. No issues.

As long you don't glob it on, you will never know it's on there. Wipe it on very thin and let it dry for 24 hours. That's all you need.

To remove it, denatured alcohol.

[Drew Hause]

Joe Wood should reply; it was his discovery
http://docs.google.com/document/d/1EGInyr3CsRadXkmTYRak4TWK-pCB3cN5Wgg51u_SnEM/edit

Brad Bachelder recomends Watco Danish Oil Finish
http://parkerguns.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9779

[Pete Lester]

Thanks. Once either Tung or Danish Oil has been applied and dried how should one treat the barrels after coming in from the field? I would think Hoppe's oil, 3 in 1 oil, Rem Oil and the like would remove both Tung and Danish oils. Do you simply wipe them down with a soft dry rag?

[Pete Lester]

Interestingly enough Formby's Tung Oil contains no Tung Oil.


"On the other hand, Formby’s, Zar, Gillespie, and Hope’s “Tung Oil Finish” are wiping varnish—nothing more than regular varnish to which mineral spirits has been added, thinning the varnish so that it can be wiped on. (You can make your own wiping varnish by thinning the varnish you already own 50/50 with mineral spirits.) As with the oil/varnish blends mentioned, none of these wiping varnishes contains so much as a drop of tung oil."

Formby’s Tung Oil Finish is an alkyd resin wiping varnish made with soya (soybean) oil. It contains absolutely no tung oil.

http://community.woodmagazine.com/t5/Steve-Mickley/What-Is-A-Woodworker-To-Do/ba-p/190

[Harold Lee Pickens]

I have 2 damascus guns that I have plans to redo the barrels and I may try this just to see what happens. Neither of these guns look like Bruce's before pictures( far worse). THey are a Lefever G 16 and an GH16.

[Drew Hause]

Pete: I wipe everything (wood and metal) gently with a soft cloth and G97 Gun Treatment or Ballistol. Not much trouble with salt water here in the desert, but most everything is a tad...abrasive...lacerating...biting...sticking

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL1373/6511424/21096662/399300305.jpg

[Bruce Day]

Interestingly enough Formby's Tung Oil contains no Tung Oil.


"On the other hand, Formby’s, Zar, Gillespie, and Hope’s “Tung Oil Finish” are wiping varnish—nothing more than regular varnish to which mineral spirits has been added, thinning the varnish so that it can be wiped on. (You can make your own wiping varnish by thinning the varnish you already own 50/50 with mineral spirits.) As with the oil/varnish blends mentioned, none of these wiping varnishes contains so much as a drop of tung oil."

Formby’s Tung Oil Finish is an alkyd resin wiping varnish made with soya (soybean) oil. It contains absolutely no tung oil.

http://community.woodmagazine.com/t5/Steve-Mickley/What-Is-A-Woodworker-To-Do/ba-p/190



FYI, then before and after application:

[Pete Lester]

FYI, then before and after application:

It was easy to apply. It did enhance the finish of three guns I applied it to. The weather tests will come this fall.

As far as no tung oil in Formby's Tung Oil, that is what you can find on several wood working sites if you look. I don't care, it works on the guns.

"What you quoted from the label confirms exactly what I said, that Formby's Tung Oil Finish contains no tung oil--only varnish made from tung oil and other oils (probably linseed oil.) Once there has been a chemical reaction between the tung oil and the resins it no longer is oil, nor does it behave like oil--it behaves like a varnish with about 69% mineral spirits content.

This is not to say it doesn't do a good job, but only that it isn't an oil finish. It's more like Waterlox (also varnish made from tung oil and resin) than like Watco (a mix of varnish with oil (linseed) and thinner) and not at all like pure tung oil.

My real objection is the deception involved in the marketing. Its really all just marketing designed to make consumers think there is something special or unique about products that are quite similar. There just aren't any "secret" formulas or ingredients as far as competitors are concerned, just attempts to mislead consumers. In the cynical marketing view "tung oil" is just an adjective modifying "Finish", and therefore it means whatever they want it to mean."

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?27840-tung-oil-question

[John Campbell]

I left the news business many years ago and went into advertising (marketing).

One of my rationales was that I could live with myself as an ad man because any reasonable person could be expected to realize that it was all bullpucky on its face and couldn't be trusted as fact.

As opposed to the news... which most people foolishly believe is fact.

If Formbys works... use it because it does. Not because of what it "says."

[Bruce Day]

I guess I'm confused. The Formby's I use says on the can that it is a varnish made from tung oil and other penetrating oils. That is what I read and it was recommended so I bought and used it. I did not understand it to be pure tung oil and who knows, pure tung oil may not be the right stuff to use. I figure Formby's knows more than I do about producing an effective finish.

I think it does an acceptable job of making a mat surface look shinier, feel smoother and bringing out some detail.

Yet we have one person contending that it contains absolutely no tung oil and another another talking about "bullpucky" and all couldn't be trusted as fact.

Maybe somebody could explain what all this is about and what it wrong with Formby's etc. If there is a better magic stuff to use, please educate me.

[Pete Lester]

Let me make it as simple as possible.

I pointed out that Fromby's Tung Oil Finish is not Tung oil. This comes from woodworking refinishing circles. Those posts pointed out it is a simple wiping varnish (pre-prepared for use). No big deal except I found it interesting and realized that pure tung oil may not provide the pop in contrast or protection of composite barrels as the Formby's product (aka warning to others, use Formby's not something else on the shelf that says tung oil).

It made my barrels look better, it was easy to apply, it was easy to find in the store, it dried quickly and evenly, I hope it provides protection from rust in rain and snow better than gun oil.

I will probably never use the stuff on a piece of wood.

I hope this helps clear your confusion.

[Bruce Day]

I used the stuff on my portable gun display racks, and I thought it looked fine. I had a lot left and thought I may as well use it, but I realize these racks are not fine woodworking.

[John Campbell]

All that I was trying to get across is simply this: Advertising is based on partial truth. Or... no truth at all. Put whatever you want on your gun barrels if you believe it works for you.

[CraigThompson]

I've redone several old Marlin rifle stocks and several Browning shotgun stocks with the "Brownell's Tung Oil" and I have also used "Formby's Tung Oil" .

On "wood" they both did pretty much the same thing .

The biggest difference I noticed was the consistency . Formby's is more like water and the Brownell's stuff is more like syrup , thick oil whatever yo wanna call it . But whatever one calls it the Brownell's pure Tung oil was ALOT thicker .

Back when I Grouse hunted alot I had a little Browning Citori Upland Special 16 gauge I stripped the finish on and redid it with about 30 coats of Brownell's Tung Oil and it worked very nicely . Grouse hunting the Blue Ridge mountains of Virginia is a little tough on gun stocks .

[John Campbell]

I just put some Formby's Tung Oil finish (satin variety) on a pair of redone damascus barrels. They look very good. I think the thin consistency helps it penetrate the surface. Overall, I think the result is a bit better than my usual "finish."

And one small bottle of this stuff should last you for 20 years of barrel finishing.

[Dave Suponski]

Guy's were can Formby's be purchased?

[Mike McKinney]

I buy it at Lowes, so I expect its pretty available.

[Dave Suponski]

Thanks Mike!

[Paul Harm]

Or, you can do as Brad recommended and use Wacto - it can be bought at Ace Hardware and probably a lot of other places. If that's what a man recommends who makes his living working on guns and redoing damascus barrels, that's what I'm using. Paul

[Daryl Corona]

I was just recently told by another trusted refinisher of damascus barrels that he uses Tru-oil in the spray can to coat the barrels after they are done. He claims it is thin enough to apply easily, dries rather quickly so a few coats can be applied by spraying on a cloth and wiping onto the barrels. Have not tried it but I will soon.