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If you use linseed oil, make sure to use artists grade linseed oil from an art supply store mixed with a little japan dryer. Not that crap BLO from Home depot.
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B. Dudley |
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The Following 18 Users Say Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
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There are several artists’ types of linseed oil. I can’t comment on which is best for gun stocks, but cold-pressed is superior for painting. Also, Japan dryer works, but should be used sparingly as too much can cause premature cracking… at least in an oil painting.
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"Doubtless the good Lord could have made a better game bird than bobwhite, and better country to hunt him in...but equally doubtless, he never did." -- Guy de la Valdene (from A Handful of Feathers ) "'I promise you,' he said, 'on my word of honor, I won't die on the opening of the bird season.'" -- Robert Ruark (from The Old Man and the Boy) |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Garry L Gordon For Your Post: |
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Thanks all. I appreciate the replies.
Art, not all oil finishes are actually linseed. The "Classic American Oil Finish" that Pilkington used and promoted is a mixture of 50% pure Tung Oil and 50% water-based spar varnish. This is what, I have been told, Remington used on their very highest grade doubles. It is what I'm using because of it's depth and luster, and superior water resistance to linseed. In fact, after today consulting with my mentor on this I have decided to not use the linseed oil as a "finish up", but use the same mixture that I sanded it. I can recall having some issues many years ago with water spotting on a gun that had a linseed oil rubbed in finish and he advised me that he had encountered the very same issue. I have used TruOil for many years but after purchasing a Parker with a sanded in finish of Tung Oil and Spar Varnish I don't think I will go back to TruOil. Just a personal observation and just my experience. Thanks again for all the replies. I'm kinda figuring this all out as I go, with much outside help. |
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Stan Hillis For Your Post: |
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The addition of a small amount of Venice Turpentine will go a long way to solve any cracking problems, which is a concern when using a formula containing varnish.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Tom Kidd For Your Post: |
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Thanks, Tom. There's so much to learn about the different ways to finish gun wood.
So far I like this "Pilkington Method" better than anything I've ever used. The pore filling is so much easier than other ways, and so complete. You can easily control the amount of shine/gloss and have a beautiful low gloss luster, with still so much depth. |
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#8 | ||||||
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Stan
One final note. I just now needed some Pumice as a filler additive, so I looked for it,and found that it is readily available as a cosmetic material in a couple of grades for skin scrubbing. The 4 grade appears to be the same be the one used for filler. I also found that rottenstone is a form of pumice with a finer grind. It is sold as rottenstone and also as something called Tripoli abrasive. It is not easy to find, but I ordered some from a link on Etsi at $10 a pound and Luthiers Mercantile (lmii.com) has it on closeout at $7 for 8 oz, part number FPROT. If you go to this link https://www.lmii.com/blog/2017/10/07...polish-finish/ and read it and the suggested links(the links are much more detailed than the detailed summary)you will find more information than you want to read on French polish, shellac, shellac oil mixes and all the variations. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Arthur Shaffer For Your Post: |
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Thank you for the link. I have dabbled in french polish on scrap stocks with good results but after reading that i see where i could have better results.
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Thanks, Art. I had some 0000 pumice on hand but haven't used it as I was afraid it was coarser than rottenstone. Looking at the just finished stock set, as it final dries, I see some uneven areas of reflection, so I'm thinking a final rubdown with the finish and rottenstone will even it all out.
Again, I appreciate it! |
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