Learning before my 1st Parker purchase

[kirbylawson]

Looking for advise while I learn and look for my first Parker.
I am somewhat familiar with Fox and other American sxs pre ww2 era.
Looking at a Remington era Parker that is 26" uncut, ejectors, skeet in/out marked in 16ga with sst, beavertail and straight stock in VHE grade #1 frame. Would a letter state skeet config. or could this be a made gun? The beavertail iron does not have the crossbar reinforcement typ. seen on ah fox guns. Should it be present on a late 30s Parker? Are Parker stocks are typ. stamped with the sn at headstock? Nows the time to learn and make the first Parker a keeper.
Any help would be much appreciated.
-KL

[Bill Murphy]

"Would a letter state.......?" It would be better to see that letter. If it is a "made" gun, maybe a letter would at least tell you if the barrel length is original. The forend should have a screw through the length coming out the front. The stock is not stamped at the "headstock" but at the inlet area for the trigger guard. Why not get the letter and then start asking questions? Your new gun sounds pretty interesting.

[kirbylawson]

Thanks bill.
I have not made the purchase. Letter has been received but
It does not mention by forend or straight stock or chokes. It does
State 26" barrels. Ejectors and set. The omission of these features
Is the basis for my further research before committing. By does
Have thru bolt and wood appears factory to my novice eyes. I hate
To pay a prem. for a skeet gun without a solid understanding.
Kl

[Bruce Day]

If a person is looking to learn about Parkers before buying and to identify a correct Parker, a good place to start is to acquire and study The Parker Story. Having a mentor also helps.

There is an entire chapter on the Parker Remington Double Trap and Skeet guns and their characteristics including a correctly done checkered butt. There are few factory correct Parker Remington 16ga Skeet guns. A person is not likely to be able to determine correctness without a detailed study of the gun through photographs or in hand.

Documentary records for late Remington Parker guns are based on IBM cards which often provide incomplete or erroneous information.

[Bob Jurewicz]

Simply sounds like the gun does not match "Letter" and is therefor "made-up" as many have been. No premium in order!!
Bob Jurewicz

[Big Friend Ten (BFT)]

KL,

You are wise to first conduct research as there were many skeet guns made by a well known Parker gunsmith. They are all great guns but a Parker factory built skeet gun will command a higher collector's price.

Perhaps if you post the serial number some astute PGCA members might better be able to provide information?

Mark

[kirbylawson]

Letter for sn 240403 does not note str. Stock with checkerd butt beaver tail or skeet boring.

[OH Osthaus]

Originally Posted by kirbylawson

Letter for sn 240403 does not note str. Stock with checkerd butt beaver tail or skeet boring.

according to the serialization book #240403 left the factory with a capped pistol grip stock. 26" barrels - ejectors and a single trigger

the beavertail foreend is not shown for this number

[Blue Collar]

Kirby, as a new member to this group, the other piece of advice that was not verbalized but was strongly implied to me as a potential Parker buyer; "be a risk taker."

With all of the implied encouragement from friends and well meaning experienced folks on this site and others, it is necessary, for you, to be willing to work with imperfect knowledge.

There is significant competition for most things Parker, in the market place. How often do you read, "I don't get to the forum except in the evenings and the "--" was already sold." You will love to see detailed photos of the firearm or memorabilia before making a purchase or even better actually have the thing in hand. All of this raises your confidence and improves your understanding of your purchase. But wait, there are some really good artisans out there who can make things look like something they are not. Plus there are subtle repairs and modifications that are difficult to identify and can make a difference in the value the the article you wish to acquire.

My advice, as a really new guy to this kind of acquisition and collecting in general; "be more than willing to live with the item no matter what." No matter if it ultimately is not a Parker original, no matter if its' value is not as first perceived, no matter if a restock, reblue, re whatever, no matter if you have to put significant $$ into making it close to what you originally wanted, because work was often done by a rank amateur with fraud in his/her heart or minimal skills. Ensure you can keep and use the thing and get as much enjoyment as if it was what you hoped it was.

So, while research will generally protect you from making a bad investment, it is possible, and you are going to derive the most enjoyment if you can absorb such "loses." After all many (should I say most) restorations will not return the investment during our lifetimes. And most firearms not in pristine, "like new" condition are probably less than they appear at first.

Ensure you are using discretionary funds and you can stand for the item being less than "perfect", and your enjoyment will be boundless. Good luck, Blue Collar.

[Bruce Day]

A 240 skeet gun will/should have choke markings.

A factory beavertail forend will have the SN stamped into the wood and concealed by the metal mechanism. The gun is likely to have the reinforced barrel/forend lug because it is a late Rem gun but not all late V grades did, so that is not determinative. However, if it does have the reinforced lug, that says it is correct for a beavertail. So next look for the correct late narrow configuration and checkering layout for a late Rem Parker beavertail. Check for the through bolt and a correct front end of the forend iron, not welded together to hold the bolt end, but factory correct. Then look for the stock....should have but not necessarily have a checkered butt. Look for the halfway placement of the stock shield to see if the stock was chopped aftermarket and a pad added. Pull the TG tang and check for the SN stamped in the wood in the tang channel. Look at the underside of the TG tang and see if there are weld lines to indicate an extension was added. Look for the correct SN on the TG tang.

Now, my comments are directed toward factory correctness. If the gun is not factory correct and it suits you, and the cost is rational for what it is, and you like it, well, buy it and enjoy it.