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Unread 02-13-2016, 10:50 AM   #21
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Jeff Christie
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I too live in the past for the most part. The past is Parkers and old classic Chris Crafts and duck boats. All are wood or part wood. Wood boats 50 plus years old won't float without West.
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Unread 02-18-2016, 09:34 AM   #22
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Jeff, good morning hope you are well! I had a Pacemaker wooden boat years ago that was totally neglected, all the ribs were cracked, I steamed new sister ribs and used boxes of silicon bronze screws, it brought the boat back but after several seasons on the ocean they started to crack again, so I just used her on inland waters, and had no problem, its all in how hard you use something made of wood, Gary
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Unread 02-18-2016, 10:54 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric Estes View Post
Eric, thanks for giving us the site for this article. West Systems is the best I ever used. I got the technical data sheet for mixing and applying a "below the waterline" formula when I built my Barnegat Bay sneakbox in a prior life. The result was an absolutely watertight hull that gave years of good service under the harsh and extreme conditions of marsh gunning.
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Unread 02-18-2016, 10:59 AM   #24
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when I looked for a wood and canvas sailingcanoe to restore- some looked good- an experienced restorer told me "there are always broken ribs" and i found it was true and replaced about 8, three broken right away when a hole was crushed through the side

still working on a Penn Yan cartopper some handy man tried to "fix" by adding strips to the outside, drilling holes in many ribs that were otherwise ok.

wood anything needs care and will need work at some point-
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"If there is a heaven it must have thinning aspen gold, and flighting woodcock, and a bird dog" GBE
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POSSIBLE CAUSE OF DOUBLE-SPLIT STOCK?
Unread 04-05-2017, 05:55 PM   #25
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Default POSSIBLE CAUSE OF DOUBLE-SPLIT STOCK?

I backed off of the 1.5 ounce 10 gauge loads and bought two boxes from RST in 1.25 ounce last year at the Southern. Bought 6s and 4s. So I'm finally getting around to patterning the gun. I learned what I already knew, it is a 35-yard gun maximum with I.M. chokes (.030).

But I looked at my shells and saw black around the primers on the first three I shot. The gun is piercing the primers as the firing pins are like a needle. They are also extremely long if the firing pin is driven out as far as it will go, which I think the primer should not allow since there would be resistance in the metal. I am guessing that is why I cracked the stock on both sides last year, and it had nothing to do with the 1.5 ounces. The firing pin holes are full of black blow-back.

So what to do? Would you just file them down some and remove the sharp point? I shot three boxes of WW reloads (3500 psi) and never had this problem.
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Unread 04-05-2017, 07:19 PM   #26
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If these pins are at full protrusion, then you may have the issues you mention with certain ammunition and/or certain primers.

I would have a good double gunsmith slightly shorten (not much) and round the right pin to hemispherical. The left looks better, but might stand a bit of rounding, too.

You might also avoid import primers. These tend to have thinner caps which pierce more easily in older doubles. Cheddites are notorious for this in some guns.

Remember... get a GOOD smith to do this job right.
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Unread 04-05-2017, 07:27 PM   #27
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Yes the Cheddites are easily pierced. Just a bit of rounding may solve the problem. An occasional pierced primer is not a big deal. Unlike a box lock gun, there is no direct path to the inside of your locks.

You can shoot 1 1/2 oz loads if you like, but I think you'll break that stock again.

And my 67 year old Chesapeake Deadrise floats just fine without West System.
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Unread 04-05-2017, 10:11 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=George Stanton;215856]Yes the Cheddites are easily pierced. Just a bit of rounding may solve the problem. An occasional pierced primer is not a big deal. Unlike a box lock gun, there is no direct path to the inside of your locks.

Thanks for pointing that out. On second look, you are correct. I have seen hammerless stocks broken by pierced primers, so I made an incorrect jump in my reasoning. With only 17 shells left, I will shoot them up and not use any primer from Cheddite ever again. The blowback will not do anything hopefully but to smoke up the firing pins.

Update: Put masking tape over firing pin holes, pushed pins through, took off sharp points with fingernail emery boards. Primed two shells with Winchester 209s, fired, nice round holes in primers, no more sharp points going through hopefully. Now to get a turkey with this outdated contraption.
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Unread 04-06-2017, 07:07 PM   #29
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For what its worth, I ordered some 10ga RST's recently that had the same primer piercing problem with my Quality 2 lifter. No problems at all shooting older RST 10's made with Federal hulls. The RST boys know about this, or at least the girl on the phone did, but can't get the Federal hulls anymore and are stuck with Cheddites. I'm going to have to take up reloading for the 10, and cut down my old 3 1/2 inch Federals to 2 7/8. Good thing I have about 4 boxes, all in steel, and only 1 box used. Finding Bismuth 2's will be a challenge.
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Unread 04-06-2017, 09:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Poindexter View Post
For what its worth, I ordered some 10ga RST's recently that had the same primer piercing problem with my Quality 2 lifter. No problems at all shooting older RST 10's made with Federal hulls. The RST boys know about this, or at least the girl on the phone did, but can't get the Federal hulls anymore and are stuck with Cheddites. I'm going to have to take up reloading for the 10, and cut down my old 3 1/2 inch Federals to 2 7/8. Good thing I have about 4 boxes, all in steel, and only 1 box used. Finding Bismuth 2's will be a challenge.
Thanks for the info. If they know about the primer piercing problem and can only get Cheddites, it would only make sense to deprime the hulls and reprime them with another primer. It may hurt someone's hammerless gun or even the shooter.
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