Barrel interchange

[Jack Johnson]

OK , I have read enough threads on this forum that I am now confident enough to ask a stupid question . I have read and reread many discussions about changing barrels from gun to gun. I have 1 1/2 framed gun . How does interchanging barrels from gun to gun work . Will only barrels from this size frame gun fit . Does it make a difference if they are fluid steel vs Damascus . . If I keep my eye out for barrels that would fit my gun what would be the procedure to make a correct fit . I know the answer to this question will be in depth so thanks to all who respond.

[Autumn Daze]

Jack, The subject of barrel interchangeability is a multi faceted one. First I would think that frame size is of primary importance. IE: 1 1/2 frame barrels to a 1 1/2 gun. Also if I was looking to fit an orphaned set of barrels to my gun I would try to find a set somewhere close to my serial range. The main reason for this would be so that the bolt and corresponding bite in the barrels would be a better match. Parker went to a replacable bite around 1905 or sum such. The 12 1/2 degree angle of the locking bolt was consistent through production.

I don,t really think that fluid steel or damascus plays into whether a particular set would fit or not. Being that these guns where machine made and hand fitted I think that you would have to count on some type of fitting.

I have seen a few guns where another set of barrels have snaped right on but they are few and far between.

1) frame size
2) correct bolt variation
3) dolls head
4) ejector gun or extractor gun

I am sure some of the other guys will chime in here but I hope I have at least started the thought process

[Bill Murphy]

Yup, frame size has to be the same for firing pin separation equality. Bolt type and locking slot type should be identical. Other than those, "Does it click into place?" would be the next question. This is not easy.

[Dean Romig]

When you do finally find a set of barrels that appear they might fit your receiver remember to remove the cocking hook from the barrel lug. It is not uncommon that the cocking hook of a mis-matched set of barrels will not disengage from the cocking crank . . . necessitating disassembly of the receiver to seperate them . . . *voice of experience*

[Bill Murphy]

Been there, done that. Thank God it was my gun and my barrels.

[VH20]

This is something I have no experience with, so I'll ask a dumb question I've been wondering: "Then what?"

In other words, if you take the cocking hook off to trial-fit a set of barrels and they do fit, what's the next step - or, how do you go about finding out if the cocking hook will engage/disengage properly without getting stuck? To the un-initiated (me) it seems as though sooner or later you have to take that chance? I can understand the reasons you might want to avoid that situation with a set of barrels that you don't yet own, etc., but when we get down to the business of committing on the new set of barrels for fit, what's the next step?

Jim

[Dean Romig]

If you determine that the barrels fit perfectly with no wiggle, no binding, no excessive friction anywhere and they don't need to go to an expert gunsmith for fine fitting I guess you reinstall the cocking hook, close your eyes and hold your nose and try the barrels back on the gun. It's 50/50 wether the cocking hook will release when you attempt to remove the barrels. If it will not disengage you should then take it to an expert gunsmith to fit the cocking hook to the cocking crank.

[Jerry Mouer]

I've found that if the hook won't release this will work, drop both hammers, this moves the cocking slide enough to release the hook. I've tried switching many barrels on many different Parkers and have had just one stick, that one I was able to move back with a long, curved dental pick.I would try anything and everything before I pulled off the trigger plate. FWIW. Regards