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#3 | ||||||
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looking from the practical side of things GEORGE IS RIGHT... but me i have a love for old rusty things...first old gun not worth much tops 250 dollars as it is...if it was mine i would clean up all the parts as best as i could free up the extractor with oil and lightly use asmall hammer and brass punch to free it...and use care doing this...i would measure the bores after cleaning and if it passes i would finisg cleaning the rest of gunk and crud off the gun.reassemble her if any missing pieces hunt them up and start shooting this old gun again...i think the old gun is worth saving it just needs a good clean up and then go hunting with it...dont try to make it new the cost would keep you from enjoying it..but this gun can be saved for very little cost... charlie
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The Following User Says Thank You to charlie cleveland For Your Post: |
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#4 | ||||||
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I'd agree with Charlie, if it is a piece of family history, and the cousin is willing to clean it up, more power to him. Cash value is minimal as is, but reassembled and assuming the barrels are safe (they should be checked by someone who knows doubles) tell him to go buy a few boxes of RST shells and enjoy it.
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"If there is a heaven it must have thinning aspen gold, and flighting woodcock, and a bird dog" GBE |
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#5 | ||||||
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In your fourth photo the barrels look very bad do not think you could shoot them in this state, but as Charlie says I never send a Parker to the scrape pile so to speak, I would try to save her and just find parts to make it a shooter but believe you will have to find a set of barrels, Damascus will work as long as it is a three frame, Parkers are like old dogs just cause they are old and decrepit, don't mean you get rid of them, think about the work they did when they were younger, dog and gun, my two cents Gary
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#6 | ||||||
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Thanks, Guys. I suspected it would not be a "paying" proposition to do a restoration. The "as-is" price range is very helpful, too. My cousin will probably ask me to re-assemble the gun, so please give me some advice about cleaning.
1. Best way to clean the inlets of that hairy mildew? Alcohol or weak bleach on Q-tips? 2. Best way to clean the mystery coating off metal parts? I'm inclined to experiment on the barrel bottoms under the forearm with some lacquer thinner. 3. Barrels look worse in my photos than they do in person, but there is a small dent as shown in photo #4. I think that could be fixed for cosmetic purposes, but I don't have the tools to do it. I'll tell my cousin to take to a pro if he's interested. Most of what you are seeing in terms of graininess and texture is not rust--it's the coating. 4. Okay to polish rust off lug, flats, etc. with very fine abrasive paper? I make guitars and mandolins as a hobby, and I'm very good with small sanding blocks. Please advise about other, preferred methods. 5. Does anyone make replica hard rubber Parker butt-plates? I'd think this would be a relative easy thing to do with modern molding technologies, and will be surprised if no one does this. 6. Just curious--do you guys think this is the original stock? Would it have been checkered at one time? I can't tell if it has shrunk or has been sanded and refinished years ago. 7. Any other advice you'd like to share. Many thanks to all, Patrick |
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#7 | ||||||
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Patrick, I agree with the others about keeping the gun. I think it might be a shooter depending on if someone with Parker Gun experience would examine the gun for safety. As for cleaning I typically use a toothbrush for the stock recesses. The metal can be cleaned up remarkably well without damaging it by using some type of light oil and 0000 steel wool. As for the stuck extractor put some oil on it, as stated above, and let it work itself in for a few hours. It will probably free itself up. I think with a good cleaning you will find you have a remarkably good gun. Replacement buttplates can be found.
Good luck with it and please let us know what happens. Dennis |
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#8 | ||||||
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The value of what you have to start with is minimal, but the fact that it all appears to be there is good. You'll never get out of it what you need to put into it, but when has that ever stopped me? I don't go into these projects with the first hoot as to what I 'could' get out of it.
Just take a look at some of the threads on this site, such as George's C grade restoration. There are well respected people used by the members who do this sort of work daily. |
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#9 | ||||||
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Patrick, to my eye it looks to be an original stock. I have enlarged both pictures and see no reason to call it a replacement. In fact, I think I can see one partial digit of the serial number stamped in the flat of the wood where the trigger guard strap sits in the wood. That is where Parker bros. stamped their stocks to identify which gun they belonged to in the manufacturing process. Carefully clean that area and let us know what you find.
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#10 | ||||||
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Hi, Dean. You are correct. I hadn't noticed the number there. I have not cleaned it yet, but can actually see that number more clearly than the one on the water table. Both numbers match. I mis-read the serial number previously. I mistook "292" for "232"
in the first three digits. The correct number now places the gun in 1883. That, of course, works out better for the introduction of the grade. The lack of checkering and the rounded tip on the pistol grip had me confused. I've never seen a photo of a Parker with an un-checkered stock. That particular inlet has also been painted with the mystery finish. Should these inlet surfaces be finished or bare wood? Seems to me they should be unfinished or only very thinly finished. Many thanks for the info. Patrick |
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