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SBT toplevers
Unread 12-08-2014, 12:02 PM   #1
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Hi fellas,

I've have a 'B' grade SBT that I purchased several years ago. It's in the 230,000 range making it a late 1920's gun. It's still factory original and in very excellent condition. The only thing I could notice upon purchase was that the top lever would not stay locked over to the right when the gun is disassembled, otherwise it is on-face and functional. In fact, I can't even locate a top lever release tab deep within the frame as is found on Parker doubles......assuming it's a different design.

When opening after firing, the top lever will occasionally stay over to the right until the gun is closed again.......but it does not do this consistently. Though it is not that big a hardship to work around when shooting it, I suspect that fully functional SBTs' do not do this. Any input as to what your SBT's are like in re: to the top lever staying open - after firing it and upon disassembly - would be a start to diagnosing it. It could be something amiss with the top lever spindle, or maybe it's in need of a deep cleaning, but no point speculating until I know what 'normal' is.

Any thoughts would be appreciated......

Rob Harris
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Unread 12-08-2014, 04:34 PM   #2
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Robert, Parker SBT's operate exactly the same and use the same parts as a Parker SxS as far as the top lever staying to the right when opened. If you don't see the "trip" at the bottom of the receiver well, that's where your problem is. Are you sure it's not there??? It's not uncommon for the trip to stay depressed when the gun is opened if dirty, rusted, or the spring inside the trip is broken. If it is there, try using a small blade screwdriver to gently depress and release the trip with the lever over to the right, it's spring loaded so it should come up when the screwdriver is withdrawn. A small drop of oil on the trip may help as you work it. This small part (trip) is often left out or lost when the gun is reassembled after cleaning but you say the lever sometimes does stay to over to the right. If nothing works, take it to a knowledgeable gunsmith.

You'll know if the top lever mechanism is working if when you move the spring loaded lever to the right, the bolt retracts and when the lever swings back, the bolt comes forward. The trip when down engages a notch in the bolt and that is what keeps the bolt back and locks the lever to the right.
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Unread 12-08-2014, 04:34 PM   #3
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"Normal", as you probably suspect, is that the lever is locked over when the gun is opened. Sometimes, the position where the lever locks is farther over than a position which will allow the gun to open. If yours will not stay to the right when disassembled, you probably need a trip spring. Brian Dudley or Lawrence Del Grego can help you.
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Unread 12-08-2014, 08:06 PM   #4
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'Thanks' to the both of you, Chuck and Bill, for your replies. Upon closer inspection, the little square-ended part of the trip is not present and the part will likely need replaced. I can see the round, spring-loaded portion of the trip that sits vertically in the frame but not the flat blade that one normally depresses to return the top lever to center position, which may have fractured off. The main top lever mechanism is functioning as it should with the bolt locking and retracting in sync with the top lever's movement. I do appreciate you letting me know that it is an identical system to their double-barreled guns, as I am familiar with those. Will get it remedied ASAP.

All Best,

Rob
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Unread 12-08-2014, 08:52 PM   #5
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Interesting... If the trip blade is broken off, the. The lever would be held open and never be able to close since there is nothing for the barrels to hit and depress it away from the bolt.

A completely missing trip will cause or stuck trip will cause the situation you describe.

Unless your trip is both broken and stuck.
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Unread 12-08-2014, 10:57 PM   #6
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'Thanks' for the response, Brian. If it's alright, I'd like to call your office landline tomorrow to discuss what I have. I have the ability/experience and the correct driver bits to disassemble, and did so tonight, removing just the triggerplate.....but my trip release looks nothing like what one normally sees in a Parker, and it was not broken either. I'm hoping you might have some insight, as I am puzzled as to its configuration.

With appreciation,

Rob
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Unread 12-08-2014, 11:14 PM   #7
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Possibly a home made or amateur gunsmith repair.
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Unread 12-09-2014, 12:23 AM   #8
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Rob, if you can, would you mind showing some pics of your B grade SBT?
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Unread 12-09-2014, 10:54 AM   #9
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It appears as that is what it is, Chuck, as it looks nothing like the trip release mechanism in your standard Parker. That was Brian Dudley's opinion also this morning when it was discussed. He is furnishing me with what I need in parts to make it right. Middle- 60's dinosaur here with no digital camera or the know-how to post pics otherwise I'd show you what was incorrectly installed. Again, my 'Thanks' to all who chimed in.......

Rob
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Unread 01-02-2015, 06:22 PM   #10
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Hi Fellas,

This is just a follow-up to say ‘Thank You’ to Brian Dudley for supplying the correct part to get my SBT gun up and running again. First picture here is the brainstorm fabrication that someone thought should function as a top lever release mechanism. It didn’t, as the top lever would almost never stay captured to the right when the gun was opened. Next to it is the correct Parker release mechanism. This, when dropped in without modification, worked just at it should.

With the help and encouragement of PGCA member Mike Franzen, I’m also attaching a few pictures of this ‘B’ grade that were supplied to me by the seller at time of purchase a few years back. They’ll give you an idea as to the condition of this c.1930 single trap. It is a 32” gun without apparent modification other than a buttstock that has been refinished from the wrist checkering back. You’ll notice a somewhat severe gouge on the right-side stock tenon just under the checkered side panel where no refinishing was attempted. A new Hawkins repro pad also replaced the original Hawkins somewhere around this same time, according to seller. The forearm retains its original finish with a few attending handling marks. Stock has a thickish comb, a LOP of 14-3/16”, and the ‘initials’ shield in the toe-line of the buttstock remains blank. The gun doesn’t appear to have been shot all that much judging from the standing breech, barrel interior, top lever position, etc. I’ll let the experts here weigh in on remaining case colors, if they feel a need, but they certainly appear original bone-charcoal as for what’s left of them.

The gun’s nominal bore diameter is .733” and gradually tapers to .694” over 5 inches, for .039” of choke. There is no discernible parallel section near the muzzle. It’s a swell gun to shoot and does better for me at the longer handicap yardages than at the 16…..no small wonder with that amount of choke. Am not posting this for either approval or disapproval, as I like the gun just as is, and it has a home here for whatever time I’m around. The leather case in a couple of the upcoming photos is the period Redhead Brand ‘Elliot-style’ 32” trunk case that Parker supplied with these guns as an option. Hope you enjoy the photos and ‘Thanks’ also to those who initially responded to this thread.

All Best,

Rob Harris
Attached Images
File Type: jpg P1010604.jpg (479.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg SB1.jpg (54.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg SB2.jpg (39.1 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg SB4.jpg (52.1 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg SB18.jpg (40.5 KB, 6 views)
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