Hello again! Now that I've introduced myself, I'd like to ask for some advice for correcting the deformed trigger guard on my hammer 10 ga that I mentioned in my original introduction post.
During disassembly, the guard was in a state where its existing form would not clear the edge of the inletting and the angle it sat at WAS going to terribly scratch the frame during rotation, even the slightest gentle upward pull caused it to deform slightly (which provoked all kinds of profanity). I was completely surprised at how thin and flimsy the metal was. (I did cover the frame with tape to prevent scratching and to allow only the barest minimum amount of deflection to clear)
The metal is obviously very malleable and I believe straightening shouldn't be very difficult if done very gently. I do not want it to become work hardened and get worse, so I'd like to seek some advise from those of you who've done this.
I've already done a number of forum searches on the matter and have only been able to find scant references to doing this. This post in particular stands out:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean Romig
Art touches on some very important points and gives very good advice.
I would FIRST make sure you have a good set of gunsmithing turnscrews (screwdrivers) and proceed with caution while applying firm even pressure as you try to break the screws free. Make sure the screw slots are clean and free of crud!!
My trick for a stuck in the wood trigger guard strap or tang is, after the screws are removed and the tang won't lift from the channel in the wood because of hardened 100-year-old crud, don't try to lift it or you may chip or splinter the wood...
Instead, rap the rear of the trigger guard bow firmly in in a motion that will drive it forward. It should break free pretty easily after just one or two firm raps and will lift up with no damage to the wood at all. Then rotate the trigger guard in a counter-clockwise motion. If it will not rotate freely it will need some solvent on the threaded area. Attempting to force it will only result in a bent and distorted trigger guard and they're an absolute bitch to straighten them back to the correct shape and angle... ask me how I know...
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Of note, my trigger guard was not stuck or tight in the inletting, as in the example in the referenced post. It must've taken a set over the last 100 years and lost its original contour to allow typical clearances when removed. Nevertheless, here we are. Any help, comments, or links to other threads would be appreciated.
I've attached a pic of what it looks like at the moment. (It's not bad, it just bothers me and I want to improve the geometry)
Thanks
-Ethan