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Forgot the pictures :) |
11-10-2024, 05:31 PM | #3 | ||||||
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Forgot the pictures :)
Pictures attached now
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11-10-2024, 07:44 PM | #4 | ||||||
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In my opinion, if the plan is to keep it in the collection of your own and it belonged to your grandfather- do what you want. Having it professionally restored is an option, leaving alone is also an option. I have guns that don’t look great but I still enjoy carrying and I’ve had a few refurbished -do what you want, it’s nice to have something from a past family member-you can’t buy that. Join the PGCA!
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A Dog, A Gun, and Time enough! George Bird Evans |
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Rick Roemer For Your Post: |
11-11-2024, 10:10 AM | #5 | ||||||
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The forend wood on the gun is not original. It would have been a splinter originally.
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B. Dudley |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
11-11-2024, 11:06 AM | #6 | ||||||
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That gun would be a great candidate for a full restoration. It may be an easy restoration that would return most of its cost in added value. Shop around.
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11-11-2024, 02:03 PM | #7 | ||||||
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You have a nice early Trojan with the faux dolls head rib extension. However, I respectfully disagree with Murph's assessment above. From what I've seen, and been quoted on similar projects, having the barrels properly refinished would be $4 to $500, having the rest of the metal stripped, cleaned recased and reassembled properly would be another $800 to $1000. Having a new proper fore end made, checkered, fitted and finished another $500, and the buttstock checkering recut and stock refinished with a proper buttplate would be at least $500. So, probably $2500 for a complete restoration from reputable sources. You would be lucky to get $2000 for it as restored IMHO.
That said, it looks like a great shooter as is, especially with your grandfather's provenance. Clean it up gently and use it with appreciation . Just my thoughts. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Mike Poindexter For Your Post: |
11-11-2024, 02:14 PM | #8 | ||||||
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I would at least have a proper splinter forend made. That beavertail forend will likely eventually pop the forend lug from the barrels because it allows too much force to be applied to remove the forend and that lug is only soldered on.
A special tool is available for the quick and easy removal of the forend without applying too much force. .
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"I'm a Setter man. Not because I think they're better than the other breeds, but because I'm a romantic - stuck on tradition - and to me, a Setter just "belongs" in the grouse picture." George King, "That's Ruff", 2010 - a timeless classic. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Dean Romig For Your Post: |
11-12-2024, 01:01 PM | #9 | ||||||
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I agree with what Dean said ,with one exception ,I would watch E Bay or advertise here on our site for an original used forend ,should be cheaper than having one made and easy to fit ! With the exception of a few Twist Steel Barreled Trojans, all of the 12 Gauge Trojan Grades were #2 Frames with Extractors so you don't need to worry about getting the ejectors fit etc. ! Again ,just my opinion but the wood is pretty readily available if you spend a little time searching for it ! Enjoy your New Parker !
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The Following User Says Thank You to Russ Jackson For Your Post: |
11-12-2024, 02:21 PM | #10 | ||||||
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Looks like one on eBay now. Pics not so good but it looks like one
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Jim DiSpagno For Your Post: |
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