|
01-26-2017, 08:01 PM | #3 | ||||||
|
they ting just fine and see no trace of separation along the rib/bbl. im assuming its just starting to separate inside?
__________________
Retired Naval Aviation Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team NSSA All American |
||||||
01-26-2017, 08:31 PM | #4 | ||||||
|
It is likely just a piece of loose solder from when the barrels were assembled. If all is tight and looks good, there is no need to take the set apart to fix the noise. Unless you want to of course.
__________________
B. Dudley |
||||||
01-26-2017, 08:32 PM | #5 | ||||||
|
They should be fine. Sometimes debris is in there from the barrel making process. I've had the same situation with a 1935 set of barrels and they have been fine for 40 years.
__________________
Wag more- Bark less. |
||||||
01-26-2017, 08:56 PM | #6 | ||||||
|
well then...you all just made my day!
i'll just monitor it when I shoot, and if I find any loosening, then i'll be alarmed. now, next question, if I decide to reblue the bbls, what method would you recommend? ive heard stories of too hot too cold and solder damage occurring. or should I say...what is the correct way for a 1940 rib/bbl reblue?
__________________
Retired Naval Aviation Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team NSSA All American |
||||||
01-26-2017, 09:00 PM | #7 | ||||||
|
Rust bluing is the only method that is acceptable for double guns.
__________________
B. Dudley |
||||||
The Following User Says Thank You to Brian Dudley For Your Post: |
01-26-2017, 09:03 PM | #8 | ||||||
|
is there a certain temp that wont ruin the solder or gold?
__________________
Retired Naval Aviation Former Member U.S. Navy Shooting Team NSSA All American |
||||||
01-26-2017, 09:10 PM | #9 | ||||||
|
Unless they are badly pitted or rusted I would'nt touch them. Just my opinion.
__________________
Wag more- Bark less. |
||||||
01-26-2017, 09:12 PM | #10 | ||||||
|
|
||||||
The Following User Says Thank You to Frank Cronin For Your Post: |
|
|